Long Read

Rio de Janeiro: Sticky Pavement & Samba Dreams (and a Whole Lot of Humidity)

@Topiclo Admin3/29/2026blog

okay, so. rio. i’m still peeling sunscreen off my elbows. it’s been…a lot. i’m a botanist, right? I’m supposed to be all about the quiet observation of ferns and the delicate dance of pollination. but rio? rio throws a carnival in your face and expects you to join the parade, even if you’re wearing sensible hiking boots.


I landed, bleary-eyed, after what felt like three consecutive transatlantic flights (don’t ask), and the air just hit me. i just checked and it's a thick, damp blanket clinging to everything. thirty-one degrees, feels like thirty-one point seven. the humidity is a solid forty-five percent. you’ll be sweating before you even think about ordering a caipirinha. which, by the way, you should order. immediately.


I was here to study the surprisingly resilient flora clinging to the edges of the city - the tenacious vines scaling the favelas, the hardy orchids somehow thriving in the concrete cracks. it’s a fascinating study in adaptation, honestly. but mostly, i spent my time dodging scooters and trying to figure out the bus system. which, let me tell you, is an adventure in itself. someone told me that the number 457 is the key to unlocking the entire city, but i’m still not convinced. i think it just takes you in circles.

I stayed in Santa Teresa, which was a good call. it’s got this wonderfully bohemian vibe, all cobbled streets and crumbling mansions. the views are insane, overlooking the whole sprawling mess of the city. if you get bored, Niterói and Petrópolis are just a short drive away. I spent a morning wandering around Parque das Ruínas, which is basically a ruined mansion turned into an arts center. very instagrammable, obviously.


Speaking of instagrammable, Copacabana is…copacabana. crowded, touristy, but undeniably iconic. I walked along the beach, dodging vendors selling everything from Havaianas to caipirinhas (again, yes, order one). I overheard a couple arguing about whether the sand was actually white or just “very light beige.” the drama!

“A local warned me about the pigeons in Largo da Carioca. Apparently, they’re not afraid of anything. They’ll steal your pastel right out of your hand.”


I did a little exploring in Lapa, which is… intense. Lots of street art, lots of music, lots of people. I stumbled into a samba club and ended up dancing with a group of locals who didn’t speak a word of English. It was chaotic and wonderful and exactly what i needed. I found a great little bar there, Bar do Mineiro, apparently famous for its bolinhos de bacalhau. Check it out on Yelp: https://www.yelp.com/biz/bar-do-mineiro-rio-de-janeiro. Seriously, get the bolinhos.

I also spent a day in the Botanical Garden (obviously). It was a welcome respite from the city’s frenetic energy. The Jardim Botânico is seriously impressive - towering palm trees, sprawling lawns, and a ridiculous number of orchids. I could have spent a week just wandering around there. You can find more info here: https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attraction_Review-g303358-d163273-Reviews-Rio_de_Janeiro_Botanical_Garden-Rio_de_Janeiro_Rio_de_Janeiro_State.html


Honestly, rio is a sensory overload. It’s loud, it’s chaotic, it’s beautiful, it’s frustrating, it’s… addictive. I’m already planning my return trip. Next time, i’m learning some Portuguese. and maybe investing in a really good dehumidifier. I’m also checking out some local forums to see what events are happening: https://www.rio.com/.

Oh! And one more thing. Someone, probably drunk, told me that if you want to avoid getting ripped off by taxi drivers, always use Uber. Apparently, it’s a local secret. Take it from me.


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About the author: Topiclo Admin

Writing code, prose, and occasionally poetry.

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