Rio de Janeiro: Humidity, Samba, and Questionable Street Food (Send Help)
okay, so. rio. right? everyone’s like, ‘rio! christ the redeemer! beaches!’ and yeah, it’s all that. but it’s also…a lot. i just checked and it’s clinging to you like a damp towel right now, hope you like that kind of thing. seriously, the humidity is a character in itself. it’s got opinions.
I’m a touring session drummer, which means I’m used to chaos, but this was a different level. I was here for a gig - a corporate thing, ironically, celebrating some tech company’s expansion. the irony wasn’t lost on me. Anyway, the gig was fine, the pay was…okay, and now I’m wandering around trying to process everything.
I spent a good chunk of my first day just trying to figure out the bus system. it’s…an experience. let’s just say i ended up in a neighborhood i hadn’t planned on, staring at a wall covered in incredible street art. which, you know, wasn’t bad. I’m talking vibrant murals, political statements, just pure, raw creativity. I’m trying to get some photos for my portfolio, but the light is tricky.
Speaking of experiences…the food. oh, the food. I’m usually pretty adventurous, but some things…some things are pushing it. I overheard a couple of guys arguing about the best place for pastel - apparently, it’s a serious debate. Someone told me that the pastel from that little stand near Copacabana beach is amazing, but also that the guy who runs it yells at customers. I figured, why not? It was…interesting. Greasy, delicious, and slightly terrifying. Check out some reviews on Yelp: https://www.yelp.com/search?find_desc=pastel&find_loc=Rio+de+Janeiro%2C+RJ.
I’m staying in Santa Teresa, which is…charming. cobblestone streets, artists’ studios, a general vibe of faded grandeur. if you get bored, Petrópolis and Teresópolis are just a short drive away. I’ve been wandering around, trying to soak it all in. The music is everywhere, of course. Samba spilling out of bars, street performers drumming on buckets…it’s infectious. I even tried to join in on a roda (samba circle) last night. Let’s just say my drumming skills didn’t quite translate to Brazilian rhythms.
“Don’t trust the pigeons. They’re plotting something.” - overheard from a very serious-looking woman feeding them in Largo da Carioca.
I’m trying to find some decent coffee. It’s surprisingly hard. I’ve been relying on these tiny, hole-in-the-wall places, but the quality is…variable. I need to find a proper cafézinho. I’m thinking of checking out some of the cafes listed on TripAdvisor: https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurants-g301903-Rio_de_Janeiro_State-Coffee-Shops.html.
I also stumbled upon a little vintage shop in Lapa. It was crammed with incredible clothes - sequined dresses, faded band tees, leather jackets…a total treasure trove. I picked up a ridiculously oversized straw hat. Don’t judge. I’m embracing the chaos. I’m thinking of posting some of the finds on my Instagram.
“The best caipirinhas are made with cachaça from Minas Gerais.” - a very drunk man insisted to me at a bar in Ipanema. He then proceeded to try and teach me Portuguese.
Honestly, it’s overwhelming. Beautiful, chaotic, humid, delicious, and slightly terrifying. I’m not sure I’d recommend it to everyone, but it’s definitely an experience. I’m going to try and find a quiet spot to write some music later. Maybe somewhere with air conditioning. And definitely some decent coffee. Check out some local forums for tips: https://www.expat.com/forum/brazil-rio-de-janeiro-13/.
Oh, and one more thing. I heard that the beaches are amazing, but watch out for pickpockets. Apparently, they’re very skilled. Just a heads up.
I’m also looking for some inspiration for a new drum beat. Maybe something with a bossa nova feel? Any suggestions?
Okay, I’m off to find more pastel. Wish me luck.
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