Porto Alegre: Lost My Drumsticks (and Maybe My Mind)
okay, so porto alegre. it’s…a lot. i’m liam, by the way, touring drummer. currently between gigs, which basically means i’m living off pão de queijo and questionable coffee. i landed here after a particularly brutal run in são paulo - don’t even get me started on the traffic.
this place feels different though. less…polished, maybe? more real. i just checked and it’s kinda humid, like walking into a warm hug that’s been sitting in a sauna for a bit. the air’s thick enough to chew on, honestly. 25.96 degrees, the app says, but it feels like it’s trying to melt your face off in a friendly way. pressure’s normal, humidity’s a bit clingy, and the sea level is…well, it’s a sea level.
spent yesterday wandering around the *mercado público. it’s insane. a total sensory overload. spices, fish, people yelling, the smell of something vaguely floral and definitely rotting…it’s a whole thing. i think i accidentally bargained for a kilo of dried shrimp. i don’t even like shrimp.
“don’t trust the guys selling leather goods near the bus station. they’re…creative with their pricing.”
that’s what old man joão told me at a bar last night. he was nursing a cerveja and looked like he’d seen things. things involving questionable leather goods, probably. i’m taking his advice.
my main mission here, besides not getting ripped off, is finding a decent drum shop. i managed to leave my sticks on the plane. yeah, i know. professional drummer, forgetting his sticks. peak liam. i’ve been trying to explain my predicament to locals, but my portuguese is…developing. it mostly consists of pointing and saying “bateria?” with a hopeful expression.
apparently, there’s a place called “som total” that’s supposed to be good. i overheard someone at the hostel saying it’s a bit pricey, but they have a good selection. https://www.yelp.com/search?find_desc=Music+Stores&find_loc=Porto+Alegre. i’m also checking out some local music forums to see if anyone has recommendations. https://www.reddit.com/r/portoalegre/
if you get bored, gramado and canela are just a short bus ride away, apparently. i haven’t had time to check them out yet, too busy trying to navigate the rua da praia and avoid eye contact with the pigeons. they’re judging me, i swear.
“the chimarrão is strong here. like, really strong. don’t be surprised if your face goes numb.”
that’s a warning i definitely took to heart. i tried chimarrão yesterday. it’s…an experience. it tastes like grass and regret. but you gotta try it, right? it’s part of the culture.
someone told me that the parque farroupilha is great for people-watching. i’m planning on heading there later to see if i can find inspiration (and maybe someone who can point me towards a drum shop). i also saw a listing on TripAdvisor for a free walking tour https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attractions-g303963-Activities-Porto_Alegre_Rio_Grande_do_Sul.html - might be worth checking out.
honestly, porto alegre is a bit of a mess, but it’s my* mess right now. and i’m kinda digging it. i’ll keep you updated on the drumstick situation. wish me luck. and send coffee. seriously, send coffee. you can find more info about the city here: https://www.visitportoalegre.com/
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