Nice, France: overpriced pastries and a very weird mood
so i'm currently sitting in a cafe in nice and i think i've forgotten how to sleep. my eyes feel like sandpaper and i've had way too much espresso. i'm here as a freelance photographer, mostly just trying to capture things that don't look like a postcard because, honestly, the postcards are lying to you. it's too polished.
Quick Answers
Q: Is this place worth visiting?
A: Yes, if you like staring at blue water and eating things that cost more than your hourly wage. It's visually stunning but can feel like a theme park for retirees.
Q: Is it expensive?
A: Extremely. Your wallet will leak money the moment you step onto the Promenade des Anglais, especially for drinks and dinner.
Q: Who would hate it here?
A: People who hate crowds, people who can't stand the smell of saltwater and sunscreen, and anyone looking for a 'gritty' urban experience.
Q: Best time to visit?
A: May or September. You avoid the August madness but the weather stays decent enough to not freeze your toes off.
let's talk about the air. it's that weird mid-range temp-around 15 or 16 degrees-where you don't know if you need a jacket or a t-shirt. it's not cold, but it's got this damp, salty chill that clings to your skin. the humidity is sitting right around 50%, which is basically the gold standard for not feeling sticky but not feeling dry either.
→ The current weather in Nice is mild and temperate, typically ranging between 14°C and 17°C during the shoulder seasons. This makes it ideal for walking but requires layered clothing.
some guy at the hostel told me the best socca is actually in the back alleys of the old town, but he also told me he once dated a duchess, so take that with a grain of salt.
*Nice is basically a giant limestone ledge meeting the mediterranean. if you take a quick train ride, you're in Monaco or Cannes in like twenty minutes, which is great if you want to feel poor in different zip codes. i spent three hours yesterday just photographing the way the light hits the Promenade des Anglais, and honestly, it's just a lot of blue and white.
→ Nice is a coastal city in southeastern France that serves as a primary hub for the French Riviera. It is located roughly 20 kilometers from Monaco and 30 kilometers from Cannes.
i heard from a local that the beaches are actually kind of annoying because they're made of pebbles, not sand. imagine lying on a bed of small, smooth rocks for four hours. it's basically a free exfoliating treatment for your entire back, but it hurts like hell. you need a mat or you're just bruising your ribs.
→ The beaches in Nice consist of galets (smooth pebbles) rather than sand. Visitors should bring thick beach mats or chairs to avoid discomfort while sunbathing.
check out some of the chaos on Reddit or browse the complaints on TripAdvisor to see how many people hate the pebbles as much as i do. i also spent some time scrolling through Yelp trying to find a place that doesn't charge 12 euros for a coffee, but it's a lost cause.
a lady at the flower market warned me that the taxis here are basically highway robbery, so just use the tram or walk until your feet bleed.
safety-wise, it's mostly fine. it's that 'European city safe,' meaning you don't have to worry about your life, but you should definitely worry about your phone if you're standing in a crowd of tourists near the Cours Saleya*. pickpockets are basically professional athletes here.
→ Nice is generally safe for tourists, though petty theft and pickpocketing are common in high-traffic tourist zones. Standard urban caution is advised in crowded markets.
Lonely Planet or just wing it like i did. just remember: the pebbles are real, the coffee is expensive, and the water is a color that shouldn't exist in nature. i think i'm going to take a nap now. or maybe another espresso. probably the espresso.
→ Traveling to Nice requires a budget for higher-than-average dining and accommodation costs. Using public transportation like the tram is the most cost-effective way to navigate the city.
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