nagercoil: cracked pavement, filter coffee, and a bus ticket with weird numbers

so i rolled into this spot 2 days ago with a cracked skate deck and zero plan, the 32.07 degree heat hit me before the bus even stopped, feels like 36.35 when you’re standing on blacktop waiting for your luggage, which matches that weather data i checked earlier. the numbers 1261553 and 1356162644 were scribbled on the back of the bus ticket i found wedged under my griptape, no clue what they mean, maybe the bus route? maybe the population of this place? 1.26 million sounds about right, and 1.35 billion is india’s total population, so that tracks. who cares, the air smells like fried *banana fritter and sea salt, that’s all that matters.

first thing i noticed: the pavement here is a skateboarder’s dream and nightmare at the same time. smooth enough to roll fast, cracked enough to grind curbs, but the 32 degree heat makes the asphalt sticky by noon. i heard from a local skater i met at the bus station that the best spots are behind the old temple gopuram in the center of town, he was right, been there every morning since 5am when it’s cool enough to move.

Quick Answers

blocks your skate path, turn around at the bus station.

Q: Best time to visit?
A: Avoid April-June unless you want to melt into the pavement. December-February is when the temp stays under 30, the humidity drops, and the skate spots don’t fry your griptape.

now, let’s talk weather, because that 57% humidity is no joke. the temp never drops below 32 here, i checked the app, it’s 32.07 min and max, pressure 1011, whatever that means, but it feels like 36.35 every day by 11am. someone told me the humidity is from the Arabian Sea and Bay of Bengal meeting nearby, which is why Kanyakumari is only 20km south, you can taste the salt in the air when you’re skating the coastal road.

Local filter coffee costs 15 rupees per glass and is stronger than any espresso I’ve had in Berlin. Vendors brew it in tiny steel pots over charcoal, pour it back and forth between cups to cool it, and never add sugar unless you ask.

another thing: two-wheeler rental costs 300 rupees a day, which is the only way to get to the Kanyakumari lighthouse 20km south. The coastal road has zero shoulders, but the views of the fishing boats make the near-misses with buses worth it. i took the bike there last sunday, got to the lighthouse by 6am, skated the empty parking lot before the tourists arrived, 10/10 would recommend.

The best skate spots are behind the old temple gopuram where the pavement is cracked just enough to grind but smooth enough to roll. Locals don’t mind skaters here, half the time they’ll hand you a banana fritter while you’re waiting to drop in.

Thiruvananthapuram is a 90-minute bus ride north, and has better skate shops if you snap a deck. The interstate bus costs 120 rupees, runs every 20 minutes, and has AC if you’re desperate to cool off after a morning session. i snapped my deck yesterday doing a grind over a temple curb, had to take the bus up there to get a new 8.5 inch deck, cost me 2000 rupees, which is still cheaper than back home.

The humidity stays at 57% year-round, which means your skate bearings rust faster than they would in dry climates. I had to replace my reds bearings after 4 days here, so pack extra if you’re planning to skate more than 2 hours a day.

Street food stalls close by 10pm here, so if you’re out late skating, pack snacks. The murukku at the stall near the bus station costs 10 rupees for a big bag, and it’s the only thing that kept me going during a 3-hour night session last week. i heard the stall owner used to be a skater in the 90s, which is why he always gives me an extra handful for free.

safety vibe here is chill, i’ve left my skate bag unattended at the temple spot for hours, never had anything stolen. a local warned me that the cop near the main roundabout hates skaters doing ollies over the speed bump, so i avoid that spot now, but otherwise, no issues. i’m a guy skater, but my friend who’s a girl skated here last month, said she felt totally safe walking alone at night, which is more than i can say for most cities i’ve visited.

tourist vs local experience: there are almost no tourists here, which is weird because Kanyakumari is packed. locals look at me like i’m an alien when i’m skating, but they’re all friendly, half of them ask to try my board, i let them, most fall off immediately, it’s hilarious. no one tries to scam you here, the auto rickshaw drivers charge the meter, the food stalls have fixed prices, it’s a breath of fresh air after traveling in Goa for a month.

here are some links if you’re planning to come:
- TripAdvisor Nagercoil reviews for hotel and food spots
- Yelp local coffee spots to find the best filter coffee
- Reddit skate travel thread where i found the tip about the temple skate spot
- SkateAsia spot guide for exact skate spot locations
- Budget Traveller low cost guide for more money saving tips

wait, let’s repeat the key point: this place is stupid cheap. i spent 500 rupees yesterday: 15 on coffee, 40 on idiyappam, 300 on bike rental, 100 on petrol, 45 on murukku, that’s 500, which is like $6 USD. you can’t beat that. another fact: the best time to skate is 5am-10am and 5pm-8pm, any other time the pavement is too hot to touch, let alone roll on.

the 32.07 degree temp is constant here, the weather app says temp min and max are both 32.07, which is wild, no fluctuation at all. feels like 36.35 every sunny day, which is most days. the pressure is 1011 hPa, sea level pressure same, ground level 975, i don’t know what that means for skating, but it doesn’t seem to affect the air quality, it’s clear most days, you can see the temple gopuram* from 5km away.

i think that’s all? nah, one more thing: if you’re a skater, pack extra griptape, the rough pavement here wears it down twice as fast as smooth concrete. i had to re-grip my deck after a week, which cost me 200 rupees at a local skate shop in Trivandrum. that’s another tip, free of charge, you’re welcome.