mapu vibes and 1 a.m. coffee runs

i woke up at 3 a.m. and decided to take a road trip to mapu. not because i had a plan, just because the headlights felt like a better idea than staying in bed. the weather was that weird mapu thing where it’s 11.96 degrees but feels like 11.35, which is just a way of saying you’re gonna freeze your fingers off but also maybe enjoy it? i don’t know, i’m still warming up. i grabbed my camera and a thermos of coffee that had gone cold by the time i left. the streets were empty except for a dog wearing a tiny sweater and a guy selling expired tacos. i’m not sure if he’s a vendor or a ghost. someone told me that the tacos here taste like last year’s regrets. i didn’t believe it at first, but after one bite, i suddenly craved a nap.

the neighborhood felt like a bet. if you’re walking down the wrong street, you’ll hear stories. like how the old library burned down in 2010 and now it’s just a graffiti-covered wall. or how the locals say the water here is so clean it’s like drinking straight from a glacier. i checked the forecast and it’s...there right now, hope you like that kind of thing. the humidity was 82%, which basically means my hair was a wet mess and my shirt smelled like regret. but hey, at least the pressure was 1008 hPa. i don’t know what that means, but i trusted the numbers.

i passed a café called café de la noche and ordered a café con leche. the barista looked at me like i was a ghost and asked, “why the hell are you here at 1 a.m.?” i said, “sleep deprivation and curiosity,” which is basically the same thing. he nodded and gave me the coffee. it was good. or maybe i just wanted it to be. i heard that the place is owned by a former tourist who lost his passport and now lives here. some say he’s a hermit. others say he’s just really good at making pastries. either way, the croissant was crispy on the outside and weirdly sweet.

if you get bored, portales are just a short drive away. i didn’t drive, but i did spend 20 minutes convincing a taxi driver to take me there. he was skeptical. i told him, “mapu is a city of contradictions,” which is true. it’s also true that he hated that phrase. we ended up at a park with a broken swing set and a group of teenagers playing a game i didn’t understand. they were chanting something about a soccer match. i tried to join but kept missing. maybe i’m just not cut out for group chaos.

someone told me that the hostel here has a secret room. i don’t know if it’s true, but i heard that if you ask the receptionist at midnight, they’ll let you in. i didn’t ask. i was too busy staring at the wall, wondering if the rain was going to come. the rain didn’t come. it just stayed 11.96 degrees. which is fine. i’m not a fan of surprises.

i took a photo of the skyline. the mountains were in the distance, silhouetted against the sky. it looked like a painting someone forgot to finish. i uploaded it to unsplash because i’m lazy and don’t have a real portfolio. the link is here:

. another photo was of a street vendor with a sign that said “free empanadas if you believe in me.” i didn’t believe, but i took one. it was okay. not great. maybe the vendor was a prophet. who knows?

. and then there was a photo of my coffee cup. it had a crack in it. i think that’s a sign.

.

i asked a neighbor about the reviews. they said, “someone warned me that the tap water here is cursed.” i didn’t believe them, but i bought a bottle of water anyway. it cost 1.50 mapu pesos. i’m not rich, but i’m not poor either. i spent the rest of the night writing this post while the coffee went cold. i don’t know if i’ll come back. probably not. but if i do, i’ll bring a sweater.

the map is here:

. if you’re planning to visit, check the local boards. there’s one near the bus station with ads for everything from dog walking to exorcisms. i saw one for a psychic who claims to talk to the tacos. i didn’t go. i couldn’t find the exact location. maybe i’ll add it to my list.

i heard that the best part of mapu is the food. i tried everything. the empanadas, the grilled corn, the thing that tastes like cinnamon and regret. it was all good. or maybe i just needed the distraction. i’m not sure. i’m posting this from a hotel that smells like lavender and old books. the wifi is slow. the bed is firm. the view is okay. i’m leaving in two days. if you’re wondering what i’m doing here, the answer is simple: i needed a story. a messy one. one that doesn’t follow any rules.

check out these links for more chaos:for random reviews,for places that might or might not exist, andfor updates on the taco ghost. i didn’t find anything, but i kept checking. probably because i’m a dog.

in conclusion, mapu is whatever. it’s cold, it’s weird, and it’s got tacos. if you like that kind of thing. i’ll see you somewhere else. maybe.

p.s. the coffee was good. i think.

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