Lost in the Mists of Kigali: A Botanist's (and My) Unexpected Adventure
okay, so. kigali. i didn’t plan to be here. my bus broke down somewhere between… well, it doesn’t really matter where. let’s just say i’m currently experiencing a very intimate relationship with Rwandan road infrastructure. and honestly? it’s kind of amazing.
I’m a botanist, right? Usually, i’m knee-deep in peat moss, cataloging obscure ferns. this? this is… different. the air is thick, heavy with moisture. i just checked and it’s clinging to everything like a damp hug - ninety-eight percent humidity, apparently. feels like seventeen degrees. not exactly ideal for fieldwork, but the plants… oh, the plants. they’re thriving.
I’ve been wandering around *Kacyiru, mostly. it’s got this… quiet energy. not sleepy, exactly, but… contained. like it’s holding its breath. i stumbled across this incredible little market - the smells alone were worth the detour. spices i’ve never even heard of, fruits that look like they belong in a sci-fi movie. i bought a bunch of something called isombe - apparently, it’s a local delicacy. i’m terrified to try it, but also completely compelled.
“Don’t eat the isombe from that vendor near the bus station,” a woman with a mountain of mangoes told me, eyes wide. “It’ll give you… dreams. Bad dreams.”
Dreams, huh? Sounds intriguing. i’m always up for a little chaos.
I’m staying in a guesthouse near Kimironko Market. it’s basic, but clean, and the owner, Agnes, is a sweetheart. she keeps offering me tea and trying to teach me Kinyarwanda. i’m failing spectacularly, but she’s patient. she also gave me some seriously questionable advice about navigating the local transport. “Just yell ‘Twende!’ really loud,” she said. “Everyone will understand.” i’m… cautiously optimistic about that strategy.
Speaking of transport, i tried to hail a moto-taxi earlier. that was… an experience. apparently, my waving was interpreted as a declaration of war. i ended up running across the street. i need to work on my non-verbal communication skills.
I spent a good chunk of the afternoon exploring the Nyandungu Genocide Memorial. it was… heavy. profoundly heavy. but also important. a necessary reminder of the resilience of the human spirit. it’s a place that stays with you.
If you get bored, Musanze and Huye are just a short drive away - both have their own unique charm, apparently. I’m hoping to make it to Akagera National Park eventually, if i can figure out how to get there without ending up lost in a cassava field.
Someone told me that the coffee around here is insane. Apparently, you can find some seriously rare beans grown on the slopes of Mount Kigali. I’m on the hunt. My caffeine levels are dangerously low.
I’ve been documenting everything, of course. my notebook is overflowing with sketches of unfamiliar plants and scribbled observations. i’m thinking of starting a little online journal dedicated to the flora of Rwanda. maybe even a blog. (i’m terrible at naming things, though. suggestions welcome.)
Here's a quick list of things i've learned so far:
Always carry insect repellent. seriously. the mosquitos here are relentless.
“Twende!” is not a universal greeting.
Isombe is probably best approached with caution.
Rwandan hospitality is legendary.
The light here is incredible for photography.
I found a few places online that might be helpful if you're planning a trip: TripAdvisor Kigali, Yelp Kigali, and Rwanda Travel Guide.
I’m not sure how long i’ll be stuck here, but for now, i’m embracing the chaos. Kigali, you’re a strange and wonderful place. and i’m slowly, messily, falling for you.
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