kabul through my lens: a cold day in the city

just got back from a shoot in kabul and my fingers are still numb. you know you're a freelance photographer when you'd rather risk frostbite than miss the golden hour. today's weather was...well, it was doing its own thing out there, hope you brought extra layers if you're planning a visit.

headed out early with my *d700 slung over my shoulder, the bazaars were already buzzing with life despite the chill. there's something about photographing in extreme cold - everything feels more raw, more authentic. the minarets stood sharp against the pale morning sky, their details crisp in the frigid air.

i spent hours wandering arg, the presidential palace grounds, trying to capture the juxtaposition of ancient stone against modern afghanistan. the guards didn't seem too bothered by my presence, which was a relief. sometimes the most interesting shots happen when you're least expected.

for lunch, i found a tiny teahouse that smelled of cardamom and conversation. the owner, a man with a face like weathered leather, served me green tea that warmed me from the inside out. he warned me about the security checkpoints - apparently they've been tightening up around the shahr-e naw district. "be careful with your camera," he said in dari, his eyes serious. "some people don't like being photographed."

someone told me that the kabul national museum has reopened some of its exhibits after years of being closed. it's worth a visit if you're into ancient artifacts and don't mind the occasional suspicious glance. the collection of buddhist sculptures is supposedly incredible, even with what's been lost.

if you get tired of the city, panjshir valley is just a short drive away. supposedly the views of the hindu kush mountains are breathtaking this time of year, though the roads can be tricky. i heard that a local photographer died trying to get that perfect sunrise shot last winter - something about a landslide and a very expensive lens.

spent the afternoon at babur's gardens, trying to capture the contrast between the vibrant flowers and the stark winter landscape. the mulberry trees were bare, but their skeletal forms against the snow-covered ground made for some moody black and white shots. a drunk german tourist gave me some "expert" advice about composition, which mostly involved him pointing at things and saying "make it pop!"

someone warned me that the Chicken Street market has gotten pretty touristy in recent years, with prices inflated for foreigners. still, you can find some interesting antique carpets if you're willing to haggle for hours. i bought a small embroidered pouch from an old woman who tried to charge me three times what it was worth. we ended up negotiating over cups of tea while her grandchildren watched from a doorway.

as the sun set behind the qala-i bala fortress, the temperature dropped even further. my battery packs started complaining about the cold, which meant i had to wrap them in socks to keep them functioning. photography tip: lithium batteries hate cold weather almost as much as i do.

ended the day at a local restaurant where the owner's nephew had just returned from studying abroad in germany. he complained about the lack of good coffee in kabul while showing me photos of his new girlfriend. his english was terrible but his passion for both coffee and photography was contagious. he gave me an address for a place supposed to have "real espresso" though i'm still skeptical.

tomorrow i'm heading out to jalalabad* for a wedding shoot. the drive should be interesting, especially with the roads being what they are. if i survive, i might have some more stories to tell. until then, keep shooting and stay warm!

for more information about kabul's photography spots, check out this TripAdvisor guide or this Yelp list. the kabul photography community on local boards also has some good tips for foreign shooters.

You might also be interested in:

• https://votoris.com/post/seasonal-weather-in-santiago-what-to-expect-throughout-the-year-and-why-youll-probably-sweat
• https://votoris.com/post/bafut-a-hidden-gem-in-cameroons-northwest
• https://votoris.com/post/when-the-wind-remembers-your-name-in-jinju
• https://votoris.com/post/how-to-find-an-apartment-in-kharkiv-without-getting-scammed-or-tripping-over-a-pirouette
• https://votoris.com/post/budget-students-chaotic-kagawa-adventure