Jakarta's Humidity and My Quest for the Perfect Kopi: A Botanist's Ramblings

okay, so jakarta. where do i even begin? i just checked and it’s…a damp hug right now. seriously, the air is thick enough to spread on toast. i’m a botanist, usually I love humidity, it’s practically my lifeblood, but this? this is a whole other level. my hair has declared war on my face.

I came here chasing rumors of some incredibly rare orchids, the Dendrophylax lindenii, or ghost orchid. apparently, a few intrepid souls have spotted them growing wild in the Bogor Botanical Gardens. it’s a long shot, i know, but a girl can dream. plus, i needed a break from the sterile environment of the lab.

My first few days were… chaotic. i’m staying in a little guesthouse in Menteng. it’s charming, in a slightly crumbling sort of way. the neighbors are…loud. like, really loud. karaoke until 3 am is apparently a regular occurrence. someone told me that the best way to deal with it is to just embrace the chaos and join in. i’m not sure i’m ready for that level of commitment.

But the coffee! oh, the coffee. i’ve been on a mission to find the perfect kopi. i’ve been hitting up every warung (small cafe) i can find. I’ve got a whole list going, it’s ridiculous.

*My Kopi Quest - A Highly Unscientific List:

Warung Sederhana: Strong, bitter, and served with a side of intense staring. 6/10. Needs more sugar.
Kopi Oey: Apparently legendary. It was good, but the line was insane. 7/10. Worth it?
Local guy on the corner: He just makes it in a little pot on a burner. Surprisingly amazing. 9/10. Secret ingredient?

I overheard some drunk guys at a nearby restaurant saying that you have to try the kopi luwak. i know, i know, it’s ethically questionable, and probably overpriced. but… curiosity got the better of me. i’m not going to lie, it was… interesting. a bit earthy, a bit… gamey? I’m still processing it. I’m definitely not going to make it a habit. Check out this article about kopi luwak if you're curious: https://www.smithsonianmag.com/travel/kopi-luwak-worlds-most-expensive-coffee-180968656/

I spent a day wandering around Kota Tua, the old town. It’s… a lot. crumbling buildings, street vendors everywhere, and a general sense of organized chaos. I found a really cool vintage shop there, though. I picked up a silk scarf with a bat pattern. Don’t judge. https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attractions-g294205-Activities-Kota_Tua_Jakarta_Java.html

Someone, a very serious-looking woman selling batik, warned me about the traffic. “Don’t even think about driving,” she said. “Just… don’t.” I took her advice. Gojek is a lifesaver.

an aerial view of a man sitting on a wall next to the ocean

I haven’t found the ghost orchid yet, but i’m not giving up. I’m heading to Bogor tomorrow. If you’re ever in Jakarta, check out the Bogor Botanical Gardens. It’s a surprisingly peaceful oasis in the middle of the city. https://www.yelp.com/biz/bogor-botanical-garden-bogor

Oh, and if you’re looking for a place to stay, I’d recommend avoiding the area around Mangga Besar. I heard that it’s… lively, but not in a good way.

If you get bored, Bandung and Yogyakarta are just a short train ride away. I might hop over to Yogyakarta next week. I’ve heard the temples are incredible.

Okay, i’m off to find more coffee. Wish me luck (and send rain gear).

Jakarta's Humidity and My Quest for the Perfect Kopi: A Botanist's Ramblings

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About the author: Arthur Webb

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