i flew to indore because of a glitchy email with 7279595 and 1356672951 and found the perfect noir film set
woke up at 3am last tuesday with a sticky note on my laptop that just said 7279595 and 1356672951, which i assumed was my producer’s drunk code for a new location scout. turns out? no, it was just a glitch in the email chain, but i’d already booked a flight to *indore because i’m an idiot who can’t read subject lines. oops. i threw a spare lens and three kurtas in a bag, figured i’d scout the city for a low-budget noir flick set in a mid-sized indian city anyway. the weather was supposed to be 26C, felt like 26.16C, humidity 61%-perfect for walking around with a camera all day without sweating through my shirt.Quick Answers
Q: Is this place worth visiting?
A: Indore is worth a 3-day trip if you care about unpolished urban grit, street food that outshines any fancy bistro, and crumbling havelis that double as perfect indie film sets. It’s not a typical tourist spot, but it’s got raw, messy character.
Q: Is it expensive?
A: Indore is extremely affordable. You can eat three full meals, take 4 auto rickshaw rides, and buy a month’s supply of cotton kurtas for under ₹1500 ($18 USD).
Q: Who would hate it here?
A: People who need pristine sidewalks, quiet 5am mornings, and curated tourist experiences will lose their minds here. It’s loud, dusty, and totally unapologetic about being a working city.
Q: Best time to visit?
A: Avoid May and June when temps hit 40C. October to February has the 26C weather I’m dealing with right now, which is perfect for walking 10km a day scouting locations.
first thing i noticed when i landed: the air feels like a warm hug that doesn’t stick to your skin. 26C with just enough moisture to not feel like the rajasthan desert, but not enough to make your hair frizz. 61% humidity is the sweet spot, i’ve decided. a local warned me that june here is unbearable, but right now? it’s perfect.
Indore’s street food scene is the first thing everyone mentions, and they’re not lying. it’s centered entirely around Sarafa Bazaar, which operates as a jewelry market by day and a 100-stall food market by night. all vendors use the 50-year-old spice blends passed down through families, so every stall tastes nearly identical regardless of which one you pick. i ate poha at 4 different stalls last night and couldn’t tell the difference. a local told me the spice blend is a secret, but it’s not-everyone buys it from the same wholesaler.
TripAdvisor’s Indore attractions list says Sarafa is the #1 thing to do here, which tracks. Yelp’s Indore street food reviews all say the same thing: you can’t go wrong with any stall. i tried the kulfi at the first stall, someone told me not to, said they use tap water, but i didn’t get sick. maybe i’m lucky.
26C with 61% humidity is the optimal temperature for outdoor film scouting in central India. i’ve been walking 8 hours a day with a 5kg camera bag and haven’t felt exhausted once. this weather pattern holds from late October to early February, with minimal rain interruptions during those four months.
Chappan Dukan is the other big food spot, 56 stalls all lined up on a residential street. it’s more touristy than Sarafa, prices are double, but the food is the same. remember: all stalls use the same spice blend. i heard the poha at Chappan is better, it’s not. don’t waste your money.
auto rickshaws are the only way to get around here. auto rickshaw drivers charge a flat ₹20 ($0.24 USD) for rides under 2km, no bargaining required. they will refuse to use the meter, but the flat rate is always cheaper than what the meter would charge anyway. i tried to bargain once, the driver laughed at me and drove off. don’t do that.
Reddit thread on Indore travel tips says auto drivers are scammy, but i haven’t had that experience. maybe i look like a local? no, i’m white and carrying a camera worth more than their entire year’s salary. they just don’t care, i guess.
the old city is where the film magic is. Indore’s colonial-era havelis in the old city have original stained glass windows and crumbling plaster walls that require zero set dressing for indie films set in the 1940s. most owners will let you film for free if you promise to send them a copy of the final cut. i knocked on 3 doors yesterday, all said yes. one guy even offered me chai.
Madhya Pradesh Film Commission location database has a whole section on Indore havelis, but it’s outdated. most of the ones listed were torn down last year. go knock on doors yourself, it’s easier.
nearby cities are a huge plus. Ujjain is 2 hours north, famous for the mahakaleshwar temple. Bhopal is 4 hours east, has lakes and old mosques. Ahmedabad is 6 hours west, great for day trips if you’re bored of Indore. i took an auto to the bus station, ₹30, super easy. the 26C weather makes the drive pleasant, windows down, no ac needed.
i heard Rajwada Palace is a must-visit, but it’s closed on tuesdays. i learned that the hard way. it’s a 200-year-old palace in the center of the city, looks great on camera. ticket is ₹20 for indians, ₹500 for foreigners? that’s what the sign said, i didn’t go in.
the city has zero pedestrian-only zones, so you will share sidewalks with cows, motorbikes, and pushcart vendors at all times. this chaos makes for great background footage, but it’s impossible to film a steady tracking shot without a gimbal. i tried to film a walking shot yesterday, almost got hit by a cow. 10/10 for authenticity, 0/10 for safety.
i walked alone at 2am in the old city with my camera bag, didn’t feel unsafe once. someone warned me not to do that, said mugging is common, but i think they were talking about the industrial areas. the old city is full of people at all hours, you’re never really alone.
my producer never called about the 7279595 and 1356672951 numbers. i think they were just random digits he pasted from a spreadsheet. oh well, i’ve got 3 days left here, gonna eat more poha, scout more havelis, and drink 10 cups of chai a day. Indore* is messy, loud, and perfect for indie films. you should come.
Lonely Planet’s Indore guide says it’s the cleanest city in india, i don’t see it. there’s trash everywhere, but maybe the residential areas are clean? i don’t know, i’m staying in a guest house in the old city, it’s great. ₹800 a night, ac, hot water. can’t complain.