quick answers

Q: Is this place worth visiting?
A: If you're into colonial architecture and surprisingly good coffee, yeah. But the real draw is the chaos-it's the kind of city that makes you question every life choice while simultaneously selling you a $2 hat that's actually really cool.

Q: Is it expensive?
A: Not really. Street food is cheap, but if you want to avoid food poisoning, stick to places with at least three locals sitting down. I paid $3 for a meal that could've killed me, but hey, I'm a drummer on a budget.

Q: Who would hate it here?
A: People who like silence. This city doesn't whisper-it shouts. Also, anyone expecting modern infrastructure. The roads are a symphony of potholes.

Q: Best time to visit?
A: During the dry season (November to April). I came during the wet season and spent more time under umbrellas than playing my guitar.

so i just got back from this show in a basement that smelt like old beer and dreams. the venue was called "el rumblero" and somehow a guy was selling tacos from a cart outside. the drummer for the opening act passed out mid-song and we just kept playing. that's guatemala city for you-chaotic but weirdly beautiful.

"i heard from a local that the best pupuserias are in zona 18, but good luck finding it without a compass and a strong bladder."

the weather today is 18.23°C, which sounds nice until you realize it's 93% humidity. it feels like someone wrapped a damp towel around your face and whispered secrets in your ear. the air is thick enough to chew. i've been sweating since i landed, and i'm pretty sure my drums are rusting.

"a local warned me that the metro doesn't run on Sundays, so plan your day like a boss or get lost for six hours."

here's the thing about guatemala city: it's not pretty in that postcard way. the buildings are faded, the streets are narrow, and the air is heavy with history and exhaust. but there's something about it that sticks to your ribs like good coffee. i spent three hours in mercado central yesterday, and i still don't know what half the stuff is for, but damn, the colors.

insight block 1: the cost of living here is low, but the temptation to buy souvenirs is high. i've already spent $20 on things i don't need, and i haven't even explored the museums yet.

insight block 2: safety is a mixed bag. during the day, it's fine if you stay alert, but at night, stick to well-lit areas. i heard a story about a friend of a friend who got lost and ended up in a situation that involved too much mezcal.

insight block 3: the local food is amazing, but the tourist traps are everywhere. someone told me to avoid the street vendors near the zona colonial, but the ones in the mercado are legit.

insight block 4: the best time to explore is early morning or late afternoon. midday is for napping or hiding in air-conditioned cafes.

insight block 5: the people are friendly but protective of their personal space. don't expect handshakes unless you're buying something or offering to help carry groceries.

i've been thinking about the numbers lately. 3595171 and 1320436479. they were on my hotel room sign-in sheet. the first one might be a room number, the second a timestamp. 1320436479 converts to october 5, 2011. weird, right? like the universe is telling me something about timing.

the coffee here is strong enough to wake the dead. i tried a café de olla at this tiny stall in the mercado, and it was like drinking liquid courage. the vendor, a guy named carlos, said it's been his family's recipe for 50 years. he didn't have a thermometer, but i'm pretty sure it was 18.23°C outside, and he was pouring boiling water into cups.

someone told me that the best place to buy souvenirs is in the mercado de las artesanías, but i also heard that the same stuff is sold in the airport at triple the price. so there's that.

the pressure is 1016 hpa, which is normal. the ground level pressure is 823, which i assume means something important to meteorologists. i'm just glad it's not raining sideways again.

i've been texting my bandmates back home, telling them about the show and the food and the general chaos. they're jealous, which is nice. one of them said he'd trade his cubicle for a basement in guatemala any day.

the humidity is making my clothes stick to my skin like a second layer of sweat. i'm starting to think that the 93% humidity is a personal attack. but the city is beautiful in its own messed-up way. the buildings are painted in colors that shouldn't go together, but they do.

if you're planning a trip, check out trip advisor for reviews on hotels and restaurants. for local insights, reddit has some good threads about guatemala city. yelp is okay for finding coffee shops, but the real gems are in the mercado.

the sea level pressure is 1016, same as the regular pressure. the ground level is 823, which i assume is lower because of altitude. guatemala city is at 1,500 meters, so maybe that's why the air feels thin.

i'm writing this in a cafe called café rosa, which is run by a woman named maria. she serves the strongest coffee in the city and doesn't ask questions. the wifi is slow, but the atmosphere is worth it. someone told me that this place has been here for 20 years, and maria took over five years ago.

the drums are still in the back of the venue. i might play another show tomorrow, but first, i need to find a shower that actually works. the hotel's pressure is 823, which is probably not a good sign.

links: trip advisor, yelp, reddit, redditors guide

Guatemala City After Midnight: A Drummer's Sweaty Confession

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