the weather here is a mood ring. 12°C today but feels like 10.67 just walking down kolodenka street. someone muttered ‘this is europe’s version of a sweatshop’ at my hostel breakfast-bacetic weather or their coffee? the humidity? the endless war between pigeons and my dignity? dunno. i’d see the cathedral before lunch. it’s open till 5 and the light at 10am hits that onion dome like a divine Instagram filter. if you’re here past 6, just get the €5 pierogi. no, it’s not authentic. but the guy selling them at the cemetery gate? he’ll yell ‘not stolen, mate!’ in three languages. the old town’s a trap. tourist crowds thinner than a borat raves review. skip the red square. instead: wander near the train station. old man with a telescope skulls my lunch questions. ‘is this place worth it?’ he asked. ‘worth the mood swings? hell yes.’

Gezhgev: where the cobblestones whisper and the cafes overcharge you

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