Erevan's Got a Weird Hum: A Botanist's Ramblings
okay, so erevan. i didn't plan to end up here, honestly. my research on alpine flora took a sharp left turn when a grant fell through and i ended up with a suspiciously cheap flight. but hey, who am i to argue with fate (or a really good deal)?
i just checked and it's…a sort of damp, grey hug right now. the kind where you feel like you should be drinking something warm and herbal. the air smells like wet stone and something vaguely floral, which is promising for my purposes. i’m hoping to find some interesting endemic species in the surrounding hills. i’ve been checking out the Yerevan Botanical Garden - it’s a sprawling place, apparently, and the reviews are…well, let’s just say someone told me that the signage is “optimistically vague.” i’m bringing my own map, just in case.
this city…it’s got a hum. a low, persistent vibration that i can’t quite place. it’s not unpleasant, just…present. it’s like the whole place is breathing. i spent a good hour just sitting in *Republic Square, watching the pigeons and trying to figure it out. it’s probably just the traffic, or the ancient buildings settling, but it feels deeper than that.
my little apartment is in Malatia-Sebastia, which is…interesting. the neighbors are loud, in a wonderfully chaotic way. lots of singing, lots of shouting, lots of what I think is someone practicing the duduk. if you get bored, Gyumri and Dilijan are just a short drive away - both supposedly have incredible scenery. i’m planning a trip to Lake Sevan next week, if the weather cooperates.
“Don’t trust the taxi drivers near the opera house. They’ll quote you triple the fare, especially if you look like you’re lost.”
okay, so the food. i’ve been living on khorovadz (grilled meat) and lavash (flatbread) so far. it’s…good. really good. i found a little place near Mashtots Avenue that makes the best khorovadz i’ve ever had. it’s called something unpronounceable, but the owner smiles a lot and points at the meat. that’s all you need to know. i’m trying to find some local herbs to experiment with - maybe i can create my own version of khorovadz seasoning. that’d be a win, right?
“The Cascade is beautiful, but watch out for the pigeons. They’re aggressive.”
i’ve been trying to navigate the public transport, which is…an experience. it’s cheap, but it’s also a free-for-all. i’ve learned to just stand back and let the locals sort it out. i did overhear something about a new metro line being built, but who knows when that’ll actually happen. in the meantime, i’m sticking to the buses.
TripAdvisor's Yerevan page has some decent recommendations for restaurants, but honestly, the best food i’ve found has been in the smaller, less-touristy places. i’m also checking out Yelp for some hidden gems. and i stumbled across this really interesting forum Armenia Walk Forum where people share tips about hiking trails - that’s going to be invaluable for my botanical explorations.
“If you’re looking for souvenirs, avoid the shops near the Blue Mosque. They’re overpriced and the quality is questionable.”
right now, i’m just trying to soak it all in. the smells, the sounds, the…hum. erevan is a strange and wonderful place, and i’m glad i ended up here, even if it was by accident. i’m going to spend the next few weeks exploring, collecting samples, and trying not to get lost. wish me luck. and if you’re ever in the area, look me up! i’ll probably be covered in dirt and surrounded by plants, but i’ll be happy to share a cup of tea (and maybe some khorovadz*).
ps: i’m seriously considering getting a duduk. it seems like the only appropriate instrument for this city.
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