Dust & Echoes in Valparaíso: A Slightly Broken Trip

okay, so, i’m pretty sure i’m running on fumes and lukewarm coffee. valparaíso. seriously, it’s… a lot. like, a beautiful, chaotic, pastel-colored ‘a lot.’ i landed yesterday and immediately felt like i’d stumbled into a movie set directed by someone who’d just discovered glitter and a serious disregard for structural integrity.

A wall with graffiti on it and a green fire hydrant

seriously, the hills. they’re insane. you’re constantly clinging to the sides of buildings, dodging stray dogs and guys selling empanadas. it’s exhilarating and terrifying all at once. i spent the first few hours just… staring. trying to process the sheer volume of color and the feeling that everything is slightly on the verge of collapse. which, honestly, isn’t far from the truth.

my accommodation? a tiny room above a ceramics shop. the owner, a guy named Ricardo, keeps offering me very strong tea and telling me stories about the neighborhood. he said someone told him that the best way to see the city is to get lost - which, fair enough. i tried that. i got hopelessly turned around and ended up in a courtyard filled with chickens and a surprisingly aggressive parrot.

weather-wise, it’s… there right now, hope you like that kind of thing. it’s perpetually damp and misty, like a watercolor painting that’s been left out in the rain. it adds to the atmosphere, i guess. makes everything feel a little bit melancholic. i checked the forecast and it’s predicting more of the same for the next few days. perfect.

i stumbled across this amazing little street art scene. it’s not the polished, gallery-worthy stuff. it’s raw, messy, and full of political commentary. i spent a good hour just watching a guy spray-paint a mural of a giant sloth wearing a tiny sombrero. it was… something.

i found a place to eat called ‘La Casona’ - it’s basically a family-run restaurant tucked away in a tiny alley. i had the seafood paella, and it was… intense. like, seriously intense. i heard that they use a secret ingredient - probably something illegal. i’m not judging.

i’m trying to keep track of everything, but my notes are a disaster. here’s a quick rundown of essentials:

Shoes: Seriously, wear sturdy shoes. You’ll thank me later.
*Water: Stay hydrated. The hills are brutal.
*Spanish: Brush up on your Spanish. It’ll make things a lot easier.
*Camera: Obviously. But don’t just take pictures, experience things.
*A sense of humor: You’re going to need it.

if you get bored, Santiago is just a short drive away. i’m thinking of heading over there tomorrow to check out the museums. i’ve heard the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes is pretty good.

i overheard some drunk tourists at a bar last night talking about how the best way to get around is by teleférico* - the funicular railway. they said it’s a bit touristy, but it’s a good way to get panoramic views. i’m not sure i believe them, but i might check it out.

i’m trying to find a good coffee shop, but it’s proving difficult. everything seems to be serving some kind of weird, overly-sweet concoction. i need a proper espresso. i found a place called ‘Café Velasco’ - it’s supposed to be decent. i’ll let you know.

someone told me that the best views are from the top of Cerro Alegre. i’m planning on hiking up there tomorrow morning. wish me luck.

i’m starting to feel like i’m living in a Salvador Dali painting. it’s chaotic, surreal, and utterly captivating. i’m not sure i’ll ever be the same after this trip.

check out TripAdvisor for some more recommendations: https://www.tripadvisor.com/Tourism-g294168-Valparaiso_Valparaiso_Region_Chile.html

and for some local eats, Yelp is your friend: https://www.yelp.com/map?fid=94781&rid=valparaiso

i’m off to find more chaos.

learn more about the city here: https://www.valparaiso.cl/

Dust & Echoes in Valparaíso: A Slightly Broken Trip

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About the author: Sophia Berg

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