Dust & Echoes in San Miguel de Allende: A Sleep-Deprived Rant
okay, so, i’m pretty sure i’m running on fumes and lukewarm coffee. 3526923… seriously, what even is that number? it just keeps popping into my head. and 1484054165 - feels like a bad omen, honestly. i landed in San Miguel de Allende yesterday, and it’s… intense. like, aggressively charming intense. the air is thick with something - maybe the dust from the surrounding hills, maybe just the sheer volume of pastel buildings.
It’s 17.37 degrees Celsius, feels like 16.7, temp min 17.37, temp max 17.37, pressure 1015, humidity 59, sea level 1015, grnd level 782. I just checked and it's...there right now, hope you like that kind of thing. I’m staying in this tiny little place - ‘Casa de las Flores’ - which is basically a glorified attic with a balcony overlooking a courtyard full of bougainvillea. The owner, Ricardo, keeps offering me pulque, which is… an experience. Let’s just say it tastes like fermented agave and regret.
I spent the afternoon wandering around the Jardin, which is basically the town square, but amplified. There were mariachi bands, street vendors selling everything from hand-woven textiles to suspiciously cheap tequila, and a whole lot of people just… existing. I overheard a group of expats - the usual suspects, all sporting fedoras and vaguely judgmental expressions - arguing about the best place to get mole. Someone told me that ‘La Linda’ has the authentic recipe, but I heard that’s just a rumor spread by the owner’s overly enthusiastic daughter. Seriously, the gossip here is a whole thing. I’m thinking of checking out ‘El Charco’ - Yelp says it’s good, but TripAdvisor is warning me about the wait times. https://www.yelp.com/biz/el-charco-san-miguel-de-allende
My drummer instincts are kicking in - I need to find a decent place to jam. I’m hoping there’s a little bar with a live band, or maybe just a dusty old garage where I can set up my kit. I’m picturing a whole vibe, you know? Like, a gritty, soulful sound echoing off the cobblestone streets. I found this place called ‘La Casona’ - it looks promising, but the reviews are… mixed. Someone said the acoustics are terrible, but another person claimed it’s the best place to hear traditional Mexican music. It’s a gamble, I guess. https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurants-g291914-San_Miguel_de_Allende_Estado_de_Guanajuato.html
Speaking of neighbors, if you get bored, Guanajuato is just a short drive away. It’s a crazy, hilly city with a completely different energy. I’m thinking of heading there tomorrow - maybe check out the Alhóndiga de Granaditas, which is apparently a former silver mine turned museum. It’s a bit of a trek, but the photos look incredible. I’m also trying to track down some vintage clothing - San Miguel is a treasure trove for that kind of stuff. I’m on the hunt for a worn-out denim jacket and a pair of boots that have seen better days. I found this amazing online shop - ‘Retro Threads’ - they ship internationally. https://www.retrothreads.com/
I’m seriously considering buying a donkey. Just kidding… mostly. I need to find a decent coffee shop. The ones here are… adequate. I’m talking burnt, bitter, and desperately in need of a shot of something strong. I heard that ‘Café San Miguel’ has the best espresso in town, but it’s always packed. Maybe I’ll just stick with the pulque.
I’m starting to feel like a character in a Wes Anderson film - slightly out of focus, perpetually exhausted, and surrounded by beautiful, slightly unsettling things. It’s… a lot. I need sleep. Or maybe just more coffee. Or both.
Oh, and one last thing: don’t trust anyone who offers you a ‘special’ tour of the city. I got roped into one this morning, and it turned out to be a three-hour bus ride through the outskirts of town, led by a guy who claimed to be a historian but mostly just yelled about the importance of cacti. Seriously, cacti.
Okay, I’m signing off. My brain is officially fried. Time for a nap. Or maybe another shot of pulque. You decide.
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