Dust & Distortion: Buenos Aires Blues

okay, so, i’m pretty sure i’m running on fumes and lukewarm mate. 3873454 and 1152882154 - seriously, what is that? it’s just…numbers. like, a really weird, insistent hum in the back of my brain. i landed in buenos aires yesterday, and honestly, it’s a sensory overload in the best way. the air smells like grilled meat, exhaust, and something vaguely floral - probably a million overflowing flower stalls. i just checked and it's...there right now, hope you like that kind of thing. 28.14 feels like 27.15, temp min 27.53, temp max 29.97, pressure 1009, humidity 29, sea level 1009, ground level 940. it’s sticky. gloriously, wonderfully sticky.

my hotel - or, more accurately, my slightly-less-than-hotel - is in [Palermo]. it’s a chaotic explosion of street art and tango bars. i’m sharing a room with a guy named Ricardo who collects vintage postcards. he’s…intense. he keeps trying to teach me tango, which is terrifying. i’m pretty sure i’m going to pull a muscle.

first thing i did was hit up [El Ateneo Grand Splendid], the bookstore in an old theater. it’s insane. like, seriously, it’s a cathedral of books. i spent a good two hours just wandering around, staring at the ceiling, and trying not to trip over anyone. someone told me that the coffee there is terrible, but i wasn’t about to risk it. i needed a caffeine fix.

found a great empanada place near [Recoleta] - seriously, the best i’ve ever had. beef and chimichurri, obviously. i’m already planning my return trip. i heard that the best place to see street art is around [La Boca], but i’m a little wary. i’ve read some…interesting things about that neighborhood. let’s just say it’s not for the faint of heart.

gear list, because i’m a sucker for a good list:
worn-out boots (essential)
a ridiculously oversized backpack
a camera that’s seen better days
a notebook full of scribbled thoughts
a portable charger (because, you know, technology)
a healthy dose of cynicism

and, of course, a whole lot of mate. i’m trying to learn how to make it properly, but so far, i’ve just managed to spill it everywhere.

if you get bored, [Cordoba] are just a short drive away. it’s a bit of a trek, but worth it if you’re into colonial architecture. i’m thinking of heading there tomorrow.

seriously, the street art here is incredible. it’s like walking through a giant, open-air gallery. i spent hours just wandering around [Villa Crespo], taking photos. i overheard a local warning me about pickpockets, so i’m being extra careful with my wallet.

Someone told me that the best tango shows are in [San Telmo] on a Sunday night. Apparently, it’s a total dive, but the music is amazing. I’m not sure I’m brave enough to go alone, though.

okay, last thing - i’m trying to find a decent coffee shop. it’s proving to be a challenge. most of the cafes here seem to specialize in mate. i’m starting to think i’m going to die of caffeine withdrawal. i need to check out [Cafe Tortoni] - i heard it’s a classic.

seriously, this city is wild. it’s loud, it’s chaotic, it’s beautiful, and it’s exhausting. but i wouldn’t have it any other way. i’m going to go find some more empanadas. wish me luck.

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