Cusco: Humidity, Hustle, and Honestly, a Bit of a Blur
okay, so i just landed back from cusco, peru and my brain feels like it’s been put through a washing machine. not a gentle cycle, either. more like…heavy duty. i’m a freelance photographer, and i was chasing light, textures, and trying not to get altitude sickness all at once. it was a lot.
first off, the air. it’s…thick. i just checked and it’s basically soup right now, ninety-eight percent humidity. you can taste it. it clings to your camera gear, makes your hair do weird things, and generally just reminds you that you’re not in kansas anymore. the temperature hovered around eighteen point eight degrees celsius, which honestly felt warmer because of the dampness. it’s the kind of weather where you feel perpetually slightly sweaty, even if you’re just standing still.
getting around is…an experience. the *streets are narrow, cobbled, and constantly filled with people, taxis honking, and vendors trying to sell you alpaca sweaters. i swear, i was offered a sweater every five minutes. i ended up buying three. don’t judge. they’re soft. i spent a good chunk of time wandering around the San Blas neighborhood, which is supposed to be the “artisan” district. it’s cute, but also incredibly touristy. i found a tiny little cafe tucked away on a side street that made amazing coffee, though. https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurants-g294311-Cusco_Cusco_Region.html
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“apparently, the best ceviche place is run by a guy who used to be a professional soccer player. he only uses fish he catches himself.”
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that’s what a taxi driver told me, anyway. i didn’t find it, but i’m still slightly obsessed with the idea. i did try ceviche at a place near the Plaza de Armas, and it was pretty good, but no soccer player backstory.
people-watching is a national sport in cusco. the locals are incredible - so resilient and friendly, despite the constant influx of tourists. if you get restless, the Sacred Valley is just a short bus ride away, and it’s absolutely stunning. https://www.yestoperu.com/sacred-valley-tour/ i overheard someone complaining about the altitude sickness pills making them feel like zombies, so maybe do your research on that front. i just chewed coca leaves, which…helped? maybe? it tasted like grass.
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“don’t drink the tap water. seriously. just don’t.”
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that was a very stern warning from the hostel owner. i listened. i stuck to bottled water and pisco sours (for research purposes, obviously). speaking of hostels, i stayed at one near the train station* that was…interesting. let’s just say the walls were thin and someone was practicing the panpipes at 3 am. https://www.hostelworld.com/p/3888/Cusco-Backpackers/Cusco/
my biggest tip? embrace the chaos. cusco is not a place for meticulously planned itineraries. it’s a place to get lost, wander aimlessly, and say “yes” to things you wouldn’t normally do. and maybe buy a few alpaca sweaters. you’ve been warned. oh, and check out this local forum for more tips: https://www.lonelyplanet.com/thorntree/forums/peru. i’m already dreaming of going back, even if my lungs are still recovering.
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