Curitiba, Brazil: Where the Rain Smells Like Coffee and the Buses Run on Time (Seriously)
okay, so. curitiba. i didn’t really plan to come here. i was supposed to be in buenos aires, but a series of unfortunate events involving a rogue pigeon and a very expensive suitcase (don’t ask) rerouted me. and honestly? i’m kinda glad it did.
curitiba feels…different. it’s not the chaotic, sensory overload i was expecting from Brazil. it’s…organized. like, really organized. the bus system is legendary, apparently. i haven’t braved it yet, but i’ve heard whispers. something about tubes and futuristic stations. i’ll get there. eventually.
I’m staying in a little guesthouse near *Jardim Botânico, which is amazing. the botanical garden itself is…wow. it’s like stepping into a fairytale. giant glasshouse, perfectly manicured lawns, and the air just smells clean. i spent a good chunk of yesterday wandering around, trying to sketch some of the flowers. my skills are…questionable, to say the least. but it was relaxing.
I just checked and it’s drizzling a bit here right now, a steady, gentle kind of rain. it smells faintly of coffee, which is a weird but delightful combination. the temperature is hovering around 21 degrees, feels like 21.4, and the humidity is clinging to everything like a damp hug. pressure is 1015, ground level is 964. who even needs that info?
food-wise, i’ve been mostly eating at these little botecos (bars) - you know, the kind where the tables are sticky and the beer is ice-cold. someone told me that the barreado is a must-try. it’s a slow-cooked beef stew, apparently. i haven’t had it yet, but it’s on the list. i did have some amazing pão de queijo (cheese bread) this morning. seriously, those things are addictive.
I overheard some locals chatting about Museu Oscar Niemeyer, which is supposed to be incredible. apparently, it’s nicknamed “the eye.” i’m thinking of checking it out tomorrow. I found a few reviews on TripAdvisor - mostly positive, but one person complained about the crowds. typical. https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attraction_Review-g303345-d188478-Reviews-Museu_Oscar_Niemeyer-Curitiba_Parana_Coast.html
if you get bored, Londrina and Ponta Grossa are just a short drive away. i’m not sure i’ll make it to either, but it’s nice to know they’re there.
pro-tip: learn a few basic portuguese phrases. it goes a long way. i’ve been relying heavily on pointing and smiling, which is…effective, but not exactly elegant. check out this Duolingo course: https://www.duolingo.com/course/pt/en/Learn-Portuguese
I also stumbled across this forum with some local recommendations: https://www.lonelyplanet.com/brazil/curitiba/forums
I heard that the nightlife isn’t wild, but there are some decent bars and clubs in the Batel neighborhood. i haven’t ventured out after dark yet, but i’m planning to tonight. wish me luck.
and one last thing: someone, possibly drunk, advised me to be careful around Rua XV de Novembro. apparently, it gets a bit sketchy at night. take that with a grain of salt, i guess. but still. be aware. you can check out some safety tips here: https://www.yelp.com/search?find_desc=Safety&find_loc=Curitiba,+PR,+Brazil
okay, i’m off to find some barreado*. and maybe brave the bus system. send help (and coffee).
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