Curitiba, Brazil: Lost My Drumsticks & Found a Weird Kind of Peace
okay, so. curitiba. i didn’t really plan to be here. touring with the band, you know? one minute you’re sweating it out in a Berlin club, the next you’re… well, here. landed late, jetlagged, and immediately realized i’d somehow managed to leave my drumsticks back in São Paulo. seriously. how does that even happen?
I just checked and it's drizzling a bit, a sort of persistent, grey dampness that clings to everything. not exactly ideal for a drummer who needs to, you know, drum, but surprisingly… calming? i’m used to the relentless heat of South America, so this is a nice change of pace.
curitiba itself is… different. it’s got this weird, almost European vibe, all parks and trams and orderly streets. it’s a stark contrast to the chaos i’m used to. i spent the first few hours wandering around, trying to find a decent music store (no luck on the drumstick front, sadly). stumbled across this amazing botanical garden - Jardim Botânico - it’s seriously gorgeous. like, ridiculously green.
I overheard some locals chatting about the Opera de Arame - apparently, it’s a must-see. something about a stunning metal structure surrounded by a lake. i’m adding it to the list. also, someone told me that the Santa Felicidade neighborhood is the place to go for authentic Italian food. apparently, a huge wave of Italian immigrants settled here back in the day. i’m definitely checking that out tonight. my stomach is already rumbling.
I’m staying in this little guesthouse near Largo da Ordem. it’s… rustic. let’s just say the plumbing isn’t exactly state-of-the-art. but the owner, Dona Maria, is a sweetheart. she keeps offering me pão de queijo (cheese bread) and trying to teach me Portuguese. i’m failing miserably, but she’s very patient.
if you get bored, Londrina and Ponta Grossa are just a short drive away. i might take a day trip to one of them tomorrow, see if i can find a music store that isn’t completely sold out of drumsticks.
*pro-tip: download a translation app. seriously. my Portuguese is… nonexistent.
another pro-tip: be prepared for the weather. it’s unpredictable. one minute it’s sunny, the next it’s pouring. pack layers.
and one more: check out the Museu Oscar Niemeyer. it’s got this crazy, eye-catching architecture. apparently, it’s nicknamed the “eye” because of its shape. TripAdvisor has some decent reviews, though a few people complained about the crowds.
I also saw a post on a local forum Curitiba Forum about a hidden speakeasy downtown. apparently, you need to know the password to get in. i’m going to try and track it down tonight. wish me luck.
drunk advice: someone at the guesthouse told me to try the barreado. apparently, it’s a traditional dish of slow-cooked beef in clay pots. sounds… interesting. i’ll let you know how it goes.
something a local warned me about:* apparently, the bus system can be a bit confusing. stick to taxis or Uber if you’re not feeling adventurous. Yelp has a few taxi companies listed.
right, i’m off to find some dinner (and maybe a drumstick). wish me luck. and if you’re ever in curitiba, say hi!
Lonely Planet Curitiba
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