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bocas del toro: a sweaty, chaotic love letter from a photographer

@Adam Wright3/3/2026blog

i'm in bocas del toro and i think i'm melting. the air is thick enough to chew, and the sun is just... relentless. i checked the weather app and it's like a sauna on demand: 30.91°c but feels like 37.36°c with humidity at 70%. it's the kind of heat that makes your camera lens fog up the second you step outside. i spent the morning wiping down my gear and reapplying *sunscreen every twenty minutes.

here's where i'm at:


as a freelance photographer, i'm always hunting for that perfect light, but here the midday sun is brutal. i've learned to chase the golden hour like it's my job-because it is. the jungle around here is lush, but it also means mosquitoes the size of your thumb. i've got netting on my windows, and i spray deet like it's perfume. still, the light filtering through the mangroves at dusk is pure magic for long exposures.

if you need a break from the heat, almirante is just a short boat ride away, and the highland town of changuinola offers a cooler breeze. both spots have their own charm and are worth a day trip. i hopped on a local bus once-packed like sardines, but the views were worth it. for up-to-date info, the Bocas del Toro Community Board is a goldmine.

the beach here is postcard-worthy. i set up my tripod at sunrise and captured the fishing boats silhouetted against a pink sky. check out these shots:


i ate at a tiny ceviche shack called la punta. the owner, a grizzled guy named carlos, serves the freshest catch you've ever tasted. someone told me that the spicy version could make a grown man cry, but i went for it anyway. you can check out yelp reviews here. totally worth the sweat.

later i wandered into the jungle trail near the hostel. the canopy is so thick you'd think it's another world. i heard the call of howler monkeys and the rustle of leaves. midway, i stumbled upon a clearing with an old, abandoned building. graffiti covered its walls: "3689798" and "1170483593" in dripping paint. i asked a local guide what they meant. he just winked and said, 'gringo, numbers are free. maybe it's a code for the best rum.' i'll never know.

for things to do, i'd recommend the dolphin watching tours. i booked through a kiosk near the pier and wasn't disappointed. according to TripAdvisor, it's one of the top experiences. the dolphins swam alongside the boat, jumping like they were posing for my lens.

the wifi here is spotty, which is both a blessing and a curse. i barely manage to upload my photos, but it forces me to be present. i spent an afternoon in a hammock under a palm tree, editing shots on my laptop while the breeze cooled my neck. that's the life, even if the power goes out every few hours.

final tip: bring more memory cards than you think you need. the colors here are insane-every shade of blue, green, and gold. i filled two 64gb cards in four days. and maybe pack a portable charger*; outlets are rare in the more remote beaches.

i'll leave you with this: bocas del toro is messy, humid, and unpredictable. it's not a polished resort town; it's raw. if you can handle the sweat, the bugs, and the occasional power outage, you'll fall in love. i know i did.

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About the author: Adam Wright

Writer, thinker, and occasional over-thinker.

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