Long Read

Ankara's Got a Weird Vibe (and I'm Here for It)

@Emma Hayes3/11/2026blog
Ankara's Got a Weird Vibe (and I'm Here for It)

okay, so. ankara. i didn't expect this. i honestly thought it'd be… drier. more serious. like, a place where people wear beige and discuss economics. and it is serious, i guess, but there’s this undercurrent of… chaos? delightful chaos. i just checked and it’s hovering around fifteen degrees celsius right now, with a ‘feels like’ of thirteen. the air’s kinda heavy, like a damp wool blanket. pressure’s at 1029, humidity’s a breezy 38%. perfect for wandering, honestly.


I’m here as a touring session drummer, which is a ridiculous thing to be doing in Ankara, but hey, a gig’s a gig. The band I’m with, ‘Cosmic Dust Bunnies’ (don’t ask), got booked for some weird corporate thing. Apparently, they needed “energetic, slightly off-kilter rhythms.” I fit the bill.

a scenic view of a city on the edge of a cliff


I’ve been mostly wandering around *Kızılay, which is… intense. So many people. So much traffic. So many shops selling things I don’t understand. I stumbled into this tiny cafe the other day, and the owner, a woman with the most incredible silver braids, just started talking to me about Turkish coffee and the importance of cardamom. It was lovely. I’m trying to find a decent drum shop, but so far, no luck. I did find a place selling antique Turkish rugs, though. Tempting, but my suitcase is already full of drumsticks and questionable snacks.

Someone told me that the
Anıtkabir is a must-see. Apparently, it’s Atatürk’s mausoleum, and it’s… impressive. I’m not usually into mausoleums, but hey, when in Ankara, right? I’ll probably check it out tomorrow.

a group of rocks on a beach


I overheard some drunk guys at a kebab place arguing about the best place to get
döner. Apparently, there’s a legendary spot near Çankaya, but it’s always packed. They said something about a secret sauce and a grumpy chef. I’m intrigued. I’m definitely going to investigate. You can check out some reviews on TripAdvisor here: https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurants-g294200-Ankara.html.

I’m staying in a little Airbnb near
Bahçelievler. It’s quiet, which is a blessing after the chaos of Kızılay. The neighborhood feels… residential. Lots of families, lots of cats. If you get bored, Konya and Kayseri are just a short drive away - apparently, they’re both worth a visit. I’m thinking of taking a day trip to Beypazarı too. I heard it’s a charming little town with a lot of history. You can find some local boards and discussions about it here: https://www.lonelyplanet.com/turkey/ankara/beypazari.

a group of people walking along a beach at sunset


I’m trying to find some decent coffee. Ankara seems to be a bit behind on the third-wave coffee scene. Yelp has some options, but the reviews are… mixed: https://www.yelp.com/search?find_desc=coffee&find_loc=Ankara%2C+Turkey. I’m on the hunt. Wish me luck.

Oh! And something a local warned me about: apparently, the traffic is
insane*. Like, truly terrifying. Don’t even think about renting a car unless you’re a seasoned pro. Stick to taxis or the metro. Trust me on this one.

Right, gotta go. Cosmic Dust Bunnies are demanding I practice my fills. Wish me luck. Ankara, you’re… something else.


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About the author: Emma Hayes

Exploring the intersection of technology and humanity.

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