Accra's Humidity and My Quest for the Perfect Bobo: A Drummer's Dispatch

okay, so. accra. wow. just…wow. i’m still peeling, honestly. i’m a touring drummer, you know? usually bouncing between soundchecks and dimly lit clubs, chasing the next gig. this was…different. i was booked for a festival - some weird fusion thing - and figured, hey, why not? a change of scenery, right?

brown deer on green grass field during daytime

silhouette of trees near body of water during sunset

I just checked and it’s…a damp hug out there right now. Seriously, the humidity is thick. Like, you walk outside and your hair just instantly decides to form its own ecosystem. I’m talking ferns, moss, the whole nine yards. It’s 20.91 degrees, they say, but feels like…well, feels like you’re wrapped in a warm, wet towel.

My main mission, aside from not spontaneously combusting from the moisture, was finding the perfect bobo. You know, the kind that hits you right in the soul. I spent a solid three days just wandering around, trying different spots. I consulted with a few locals, naturally.

“Don’t go to that place near the market,” someone mumbled to me, clearly a bit tipsy. “Too much sugar. Ruins the whole experience.”

So, I didn’t. Smart move, apparently. I ended up at this little place called ‘Mama Esi’s’ - found it on TripAdvisor, actually. https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurants-g298316-Accra.html It’s tucked away down a side street, super unassuming. Mama Esi herself is a legend. She doesn’t smile much, but her bobo? Chef’s kiss. Seriously, the best I’ve ever had. It’s got this subtle ginger kick and just the right amount of sweetness. I’m already plotting my return.

Speaking of plotting, if you get bored, Kumasi and Cape Coast are just a short drive away. I didn't make it out there this time, but I'm hearing good things.

I also spent a lot of time just…observing. The energy here is insane. The traffic is…an experience. (Seriously, learn to embrace the chaos. It’s part of the charm.) And the street food? Don’t even get me started. I tried everything from grilled plantains to…well, let’s just say some things are best left un-described. Yelp has some decent reviews, if you're feeling brave. https://www.yelp.com/search?find_desc=food&find_loc=Accra%2C+Ghana

I overheard some gossip at a chop bar - apparently, there’s a new art collective setting up shop in *Labone. Something about reclaiming public spaces and using street art to tell stories. Sounds pretty cool. I’m definitely going to check it out next time. You can find some info on local events here: https://www.eventbrite.com/d/ghana--accra/events/

Pro-Tip #1: Bring a lot of mosquito repellent. Like, industrial-strength stuff. You’ll thank me later.

Pro-Tip #2: Learn a few basic phrases in Twi. The locals really appreciate it.

Pro-Tip #3: Don't be afraid to haggle. It's expected.

Pro-Tip #4:* Embrace the heat. Seriously, fighting it is a losing battle. Just hydrate and accept your fate.

I’m already missing the chaos, the bobo, and even the humidity. Accra, you were…an adventure. I’m off to my next gig - somewhere decidedly less humid, I hope. Maybe somewhere with air conditioning. A girl can dream, right? Check out some local forums for more insider tips: https://www.lonelyplanet.com/ghana/accra/forums

Someone told me that the best time to visit is during the dry season (November to March), but honestly, I kind of loved the rain. It gave everything this lush, vibrant feel. Plus, it was a good excuse to hide in Mama Esi’s and drink bobo.

Accra's Humidity and My Quest for the Perfect Bobo: A Drummer's Dispatch

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About the author: Hugo Barrett

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