Long Read
Accra in a 3am haze: locals don't care about your Instagram
i just stared at my phone and whispered 'what the hell am i doing here', because apparently 'tropical weather alert' wasn't your first tip.
Quick Answers
Q: Does this place even know you're there?
A: My face doesn't exist on their socials. If you high-five a security guard, he won't remember your name.
Q: Can you actually buy a coffee without being shown the menu?
A: Only espresso at a rooftop 'bar' that doubles as a shrine to Michael Kors and tortoise oil.
Q: Do taxi drivers ask if you need WiFi?
A: Nope. They ask if you have extra money for their brother's motorcycle parts shop and hit you with a £5 fare.
The air is like breathing soggy chip bags, and the temp points to 'tropical' but your hydration tracker says 'heatstroke watch.'
One local coffee snob (note: she's the only one who doesn't call this place 'feels like a rejected set design') told me: 'Accra doesn't care. You should actually care.' Which is totally opposite of how i feel.
A tourist might love the red clay firing pits at Sankofa Plaza, but a local just knocks grandma's yam recipe from the air. My guide in Accra - let's call him John - says the city's vibe is 'post-apocalyptic potluck.'
Crib Notes
- *Weather-proof your inhaler. August Accra temperatures don't differentiate between 'hot' and 'cleavage.'
- Naismith Park is full of goat herders who don't want your bike. They want your wallet.
- Meet locals at the market. Most people are too busy judging your shoes to ask for travel tips.
- 'The Hyena House' hostel is run by innkeepers who have never heard of 'clean sheets.' It's like finding a bomb shelter in a city where Christmas is undefined.
- If you wear shorts, don't bring cash.* Everyone pockets them and hates you.
Jenny, a travel influencer i met, warned me: 'This city is a lot like Tinder - cute at first, then it's all tough randos and questionable life choices.'
Another local (wearing a 'Some of My Best Friends Are...' shirt) joked: 'Accra's biggest export is 'you looked confused, but i didn't have time to correct you.'
Talking to a botanist on the beach, she said: 'This city has a secret - it's colonized 70% by invasive plant species, so the dirt's actually REALLY good for growing street food.' Which i bet is a lie.
The Actual Streets
I tried spotting a sea turtle, and met a guy who does stand-up comedy about fishing boats. He said the city has 'more puns than fish.' i asked: 'does that mean no seafood jokes?' His reply: 'Only vegetarian ones.' which made no sense.
The price of a $5 beer jumped to £20 'taxes' because 'the government thinks it's a tourist trap.' Apparently i'm the only person in town who can spell 'Beer.'
Another place: 'The Old Market.' i heard: 'You can't even find your own destination.'
Quick Links
- TripAdvisor - listed as 'kindest city in West Africa' (translation: you'll cry in three paragraphs)
- Airbnb in Accra - the host says: 'i'll pretend i don't see you' (because adverts have weak eyes)
Ah, one last thing. A weather forecaster tweeted: 'We're hotspotting for extreme heat.' which i now interpret as 'ask your doctor about sunscreen.'
Really, you could find a friendlier city in a browser.
Q: Should you even go here?
A: If the stars are jealous of your modern life, yes.
PS - the bathroom at this hostel has a sign: 'Please don't use soap unless it's in the shape of a British pound.' I didn't laugh.
You might also be interested in:
- Soof Drinks - Frisdrank 0% Zooi - Sparkling - Citroen, Munt & Appel - blikjes 12 x 250ml (EAN: 8719324733717)
- colombo'da yaşamak bir yere takılıp kalmak gibi hissettiriyor
- Zwangerschapsdagboek voor 9 Maanden - Baby Voetafdruk en Handafdruk Zwart Inktafdruk - Telano Zwangerschap Cadeau (EAN: 9789083640402)
- BJØRNSON Alba Softshell Zomerjas Dames Stretch - Maat 54 - Donkerblauw (EAN: 8715396801460)
- Giorgio Beverly Hills Beverly Hills Giorgio - 90 ml - Eau de toilette (EAN: 0716393009581): Waarom ik dit parfum nu in mijn collectie heb