Tehran & the Static Between Beats

okay, so tehran. it wasn't on the 'plan', you know? i was supposed to be in istanbul, chasing down a vintage drum kit someone swore was owned by a turkish psych-rock legend. but flights got cancelled, visas got…complicated, and suddenly i was staring at a boarding pass for imam khomeini international airport.

it's…a lot. like, visually overwhelming. not in a bad way, just…constant. *Buildings stacked on buildings, markets spilling onto the streets, the smell of pistachios and exhaust fumes battling it out. i just checked and it's hovering around eighteen degrees, with a humidity that feels like a damp hug. not exactly beach weather, but definitely not freezing. the air pressure is kinda weird, though, feels like it's pushing in on you a little.

i’m a touring session drummer, right? so i’m always looking for the pulse of a city, the rhythm section. tehran’s is…complex. it’s not a straightforward 4/4 beat. it’s polyrhythmic, layered, a little bit chaotic. i spent a day just wandering around the grand bazaar (https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attraction_Review-g293985-d322841-Reviews-Grand_Bazaar-Tehran_Tehran_Province.html), trying to find a decent set of darbuka heads. no luck, but i did stumble upon a tea house where they were playing some incredible traditional music.

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“apparently, the guy who owns that carpet shop near enghelab square is a total rip-off. my cousin’s friend got charged like, three times the going rate for a kilim.”
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that’s what the guy at the falafel stand told me, anyway. he also recommended i check out the golestan palace (https://www.yelp.com/biz/golestan-palace-tehran). said it’s “worth the hassle” with the security checks. i haven’t gone yet, honestly. i’m still recovering from the airport security.

my neighbors here are…loud. not in a rude way, just…enthusiastic. lots of shouting, laughter, and what i think is someone practicing the tar (a persian lute). if you get bored, the mountains are just a short drive away, offering a completely different vibe. i’ve been trying to find some local jam sessions, but it’s proving difficult. everyone i’ve asked just looks at me like i’m speaking another language. which, let’s be real, i kind of am.

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“don’t trust the taxi drivers who hang around imam khomeini. they’ll take you on the scenic route…and charge you double.”
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that was a warning from a woman i met at a coffee shop. she also said the coffee was terrible, which, fair. i’m a bit of a coffee snob, i admit it. i’ve been relying on instant espresso packets, which is a tragedy. i did find a decent little bakery though, with amazing noon-e barbari (persian flatbread). https://www.lonelyplanet.com/iran/tehran/food-drink has some good recommendations, but honestly, just wandering and getting lost is the best way to find the good stuff.

i overheard someone saying that the traffic is insane during rush hour, and that you should avoid vali-asr street at all costs. i haven’t tested that theory yet, but i’m inclined to believe them. it looks…intense. i’m starting to think this whole “wrong turn” might be exactly what i needed. it’s forcing me to slow down, to listen, to actually see* where i am. and honestly? the static between the beats is kinda beautiful.

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