Surabaya's Sticky Heat & Secret Warungs: A Drummer's Dispatch
okay, so. surabaya. i’m still peeling off the humidity, honestly. landed here a few days ago, gig with a local band - they’re pretty tight, surprisingly good fusion stuff. the whole thing felt… unexpected. i’m used to smoky clubs in berlin, not this… this vibrant, buzzing energy.
I just checked and it’s… a damp hug out there right now. Feels like 34.67 degrees, which is basically my personal sauna setting. Pressure’s steady, though, which is nice. I’m not a fan of unpredictable weather when I’m trying to keep a beat.
This place is loud. Not just traffic, though there’s plenty of that. It’s the constant chatter, the hawkers, the gamelan music spilling out of doorways. It’s… a lot. But in a good way, you know? Like, a sensory overload that somehow feels comforting. I’m staying in a little guesthouse near *Peneleh Market. It’s chaotic, smells like spices and something vaguely fishy, but the owner, Ibu Sri, makes the best kopi. Seriously, forget your fancy single-origin pour-overs. This is the real deal.
Someone told me that Peneleh Market is where you can find anything - and I mean anything. Apparently, there’s a guy who sells antique maps and another who specializes in rare bird feathers. I haven’t found either of those yet, but I did score a ridiculously cheap batik shirt.
I’ve been trying to eat my way through the city. The street food is insane. Seriously, I’m pretty sure I’ve gained five pounds in three days. Rawon is a must - that black beef soup is incredible. And the sate… oh man, the sate. I found this tiny warung tucked away down a side street - it’s called Warung Bu Hani. Don’t expect fancy seating or anything. It’s basically a plastic table and a few stools. But the food? Forget about it. Ibu Hani’s sate is legendary. I heard that she’s been making it the same way for over 40 years.
“Apparently, she only uses grass-fed beef and her peanut sauce is a family secret. Don’t even think about asking for the recipe.”
I’m trying to check out some of the historical sites too. House of Sampoerna is pretty cool - a massive clove cigarette factory that’s also a museum. It’s a bit touristy, sure, but the architecture is stunning. And the free cigarettes are a nice bonus. Check out their website: https://www.sampoerna.com/.
If you get bored, Malang and Mojokerto are just a short drive away. I might head out there for a day trip next week.
Pro-Tips for Surabaya Survival (as a perpetually tired drummer):
*Hydrate. Constantly. Seriously, you will sweat out your entire body weight in a single day.
*Learn a few basic Indonesian phrases. Ibu Sri appreciates it, and it makes navigating the markets a lot easier.
*Bargain hard. It’s expected.
*Be prepared for traffic. It’s… intense.
*Embrace the chaos. It’s part of the charm.
*Find a good warung. Seriously, that’s the key to happiness here.
I’m heading out to check out Cheng Hoo Mosque* later. Apparently, it’s the largest mosque in Southeast Asia. I’ll let you know how it is. You can find some reviews on TripAdvisor: https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attraction_Review-g297714-d1638787-Reviews-Cheng_Hoo_Mosque-Surabaya_East_Java.html. Also, Yelp has some interesting takes: https://www.yelp.com/biz/masjid-cheng-hoo-surabaya.
Okay, gotta run. The band’s waiting. Wish me luck - and send coffee.
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