Split Decisions & Damp Socks in Split, Croatia
okay, so. split. i’m still peeling the salt spray off my eyelashes, honestly. it’s been…a lot. i’m a touring drummer, you know? usually i’m bouncing between soundchecks and screaming crowds and lukewarm beer. this was…different. this was quiet, in a way i wasn’t expecting.
i just checked and it’s…a persistent drizzle right now, clinging to everything like a disappointed ghost. feels like 12.85, which is basically damp socks and existential dread. the pressure’s high, humidity’s insane - 94%? i’m pretty sure my hair is actively rebelling.
look, i wasn’t supposed to be here. the band’s van broke down somewhere near Sarajevo, and i got rerouted. split was the closest place with a vaguely decent hostel. i found one on TripAdvisor - https://www.tripadvisor.com/Tourism-g298255-Split_Split-Vacations.html - it was…rustic. let’s go with rustic.
but honestly? it was kind of perfect. i spent most of my time wandering around Diocletian’s Palace. it’s massive. like, seriously, you could get lost in there for days. i stumbled into this tiny little konoba - https://www.yelp.com/search?find_desc=konoba&find_loc=Split,+Croatia - and had the best grilled octopus of my life. seriously. melt-in-your-mouth good.
“Don’t trust the pigeons,” a very drunk man told me outside a bar. “They’re spies. For the Venetians.”
right? who says that? but that’s split for you. a little bit weird, a little bit wonderful.
I overheard someone complaining about the bus schedules on a local forum - https://www.reddit.com/r/croatia/ - apparently, they’re notoriously unreliable. good to know for next time.
I spent an afternoon just sitting on the Riva, watching the boats bobbing around. it’s so peaceful. if you get bored, Zadar and Dubrovnik are just a short drive away. i didn’t make it to either, but i heard Zadar has that sea organ thing, which sounds…oddly compelling.
“The gelato is overpriced,” a local warned me, shaking his head. “But the fig cake? Worth every kuna.”
he was right about the fig cake. seriously. find it. eat it. thank me later.
*gear list (because, you know, drummer things):
My trusty sticks (obviously)
Earplugs (essential for any drummer, anywhere)
A ridiculously oversized scarf (for dramatic effect and dampness protection)
A phrasebook (my Croatian is…limited)
A portable charger (because my phone dies at the worst possible moments)
*pro-tips for split:
Wear comfortable shoes. you’ll be doing a lot of walking.
Learn a few basic Croatian phrases. the locals appreciate it.
Don’t be afraid to get lost. some of the best discoveries are made when you’re wandering aimlessly.
Try the fig cake. seriously.
Embrace the drizzle. it’s part of the charm.
I’m not sure what my next stop is, but i’m definitely going to miss the smell of salt and figs. and maybe the damp socks a little bit. okay, maybe not. but split…split was something else. a weird, wonderful, slightly soggy something else.
check out some more travel blogs for inspiration: https://www.nomadicmatt.com/
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