São Paulo: Concrete Jungles and Seriously Good Pastel de Nata
okay, so. i’m back. from são paulo. and honestly? i’m still processing. it’s… a lot. like, a lot a lot. i’m a touring drummer, right? i’ve seen some cities. but this one… this one hits different. it’s not postcard pretty, not in the way you’re probably imagining. it’s raw, it’s chaotic, it’s got this incredible energy that just vibrates through the pavement.
I landed, bleary-eyed after a ridiculous flight, and the air just smacked me in the face. i just checked and it’s… a humid blanket right now, clinging to everything. not unpleasant, just… present. the kind of heat that makes you want to immediately find a strong iced coffee and a shady spot. which, naturally, i did.
I spent most of my time in Vila Madalena, which is apparently the place to be. Graffiti everywhere, tiny bars spilling onto the sidewalks, the smell of grilling meat constantly in the air. it’s a sensory overload in the best possible way. i stumbled into this little pastelaria - Pastelaria da Vila - and seriously, those pastéis? life-changing. flaky, savory, perfect. someone told me that the cheese ones are the way to go, and they were not wrong. check out their Yelp page: https://www.yelp.com/biz/pastelaria-da-vila-sao-paulo.
“Don’t trust the pigeons. They’re organized. I swear, they’re plotting something.”
That’s what this old guy muttered to me while i was trying to eat a coxinha (another must-try, btw). i didn’t question it. in são paulo, you just… accept the weirdness.
I did a walking tour - highly recommend it, especially if you’re solo. it’s a good way to get your bearings and not get completely lost in the maze of streets. we went to the MASP (Museu de Arte de São Paulo) - the architecture alone is worth the visit. and then wandered through Ibirapuera Park, which is a surprisingly peaceful oasis in the middle of all the concrete.
I’m trying to be organized here, but my brain feels like a dropped drum kit. okay, gear list, because that’s what i do.
My trusty snare drum (obviously)
Noise-canceling headphones - essential for surviving long flights and chaotic city streets.
A good pair of walking shoes - you’ll be doing a lot of walking.
A universal adapter - because, you know, brazil.
A phrasebook - my portuguese is… nonexistent.
A reusable water bottle - stay hydrated, people!
I overheard some drunk tourists complaining about the traffic. honestly? i found it kind of exhilarating. it’s just… constant motion. a river of cars and buses and motorcycles, all flowing together. it’s a little terrifying, but also strangely beautiful. if you get bored, campinas and santos are just a short drive away.
I also spent an afternoon wandering around Liberdade, the japanese district. the food is incredible, the shops are fascinating, and the atmosphere is completely different from the rest of the city. check out TripAdvisor for some recommendations: https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attractions-g303359-Activities-Liberdade_Sao_Paulo_State.html.
Someone else warned me about pickpockets, so keep your valuables close. it’s a big city, you know? common sense stuff.
Honestly, i’m already planning my return trip. i feel like i barely scratched the surface. there’s so much more to explore, so much more to experience. and so many more pastéis to eat. i’m also looking into some local music venues - maybe i can even get a gig. check out this site for local events: https://www.sympla.com.br/.
pro-tip: learn a few basic portuguese phrases. even just “obrigado” (thank you) will go a long way. and don’t be afraid to get lost. some of the best discoveries happen when you’re not looking for them.
You might also be interested in:
- https://votoris.com/post/la-vega-diaries-humidity-fried-chicken-and-a-whole-lot-of-chaos
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- https://votoris.com/post/gainesville-florida-humidity-alligators-and-questionable-decisions
- https://votoris.com/post/relocating-to-muscat-a-coffee-snobs-survival-kit-and-why-you-should-bring-a-thermos-literally
- https://votoris.com/post/commute-times-in-lokoja-how-long-will-you-spend-in-traffic-2