Long Read

San Juan, Puerto Rico: Humidity, History, and a Seriously Sticky Situation

@Topiclo Admin3/21/2026blog

okay, so i’m currently sweating through everything i own in *San Juan, puerto rico. it’s…a lot. like, a warm hug from a very enthusiastic, slightly damp friend. i just checked and it’s hovering around twenty-five degrees, but feels like it’s trying to actively boil you. the air is thick enough to chew, honestly.


i’m here scouting locations for a low-budget indie film - think gritty realism, lots of handheld shots, and a soundtrack that’ll make your ears bleed in a good way. i’m the film scout, which basically means i wander around looking for places that
look like trouble, and then take pictures. it’s glamorous, i swear.


the old city is incredible, though. seriously, the architecture is insane. all these crumbling colonial buildings painted in bright, faded colors. it’s like stepping back in time, but with more tourists and the constant threat of a rogue iguana. i spent a whole afternoon just getting lost in the streets, snapping photos. i’ve been trying to capture the way the light hits the
cobblestones at sunset, but it’s proving…challenging.

i overheard someone at a
cafe saying that the best mofongo is at a place called Deaverdura, but you have to go on a tuesday to get the real deal. apparently, the chef only makes it properly on tuesdays. https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g188549-d1064999-Reviews-Deaverdura-San_Juan_Puerto_Rico.html i’m definitely checking that out.

"Don't trust the guys selling coconuts on the beach. They shortchange everyone."


that’s what a very insistent bartender told me last night. he also claimed to be a retired pirate, but i’m taking that with a grain of salt. the
beach itself is beautiful, though. the water is ridiculously clear, and there’s always something going on. i saw a guy trying to teach a parrot to say “quiero una cerveza” (i want a beer). it wasn’t going well.


the humidity is seriously messing with my hair, though. it’s like a personal cloud following me around. i’ve tried everything - hats, scarves, even just embracing the frizz - but nothing works. i’m starting to think i need to invest in a dehumidifier for my backpack.

i’ve been staying in a little guesthouse in
Santurce. it’s…interesting. the walls are paper-thin, and the owner’s dog has a serious barking problem. but it’s cheap, and it’s close to everything. plus, the neighbors are pretty cool. if you get bored, Ponce and Mayagüez are just a short drive away, apparently.

someone warned me about the traffic around
Old San Juan* - said it’s a complete nightmare, especially during rush hour. https://www.yelp.com/search?find_desc=Traffic+in+Old+San+Juan&find_loc=Old+San+Juan%2C+San+Juan%2C+PR they weren’t kidding. i spent a good hour stuck in a jam yesterday, listening to a reggaeton song on repeat. i think i’m still hearing it in my dreams.

i also stumbled upon this really cool local art collective. they’re doing some amazing stuff with recycled materials. https://www.facebook.com/groups/149989995361444/ it’s a bit off the beaten path, but definitely worth checking out if you’re into that kind of thing.

"The best pastelillos are from a little stand near the port, but you have to get there before noon or they're all gone."


that’s a tip i’m definitely going to try to follow. i’m a sucker for a good pastelillo.

honestly, this place is a sensory overload. the colors, the smells, the sounds…it’s exhausting and exhilarating all at the same time. i’m pretty sure i’ve already consumed my weight in coffee and plantains. and i’m not even close to being done exploring. i think i need a nap. and maybe a new wardrobe. and definitely a dehumidifier. https://www.lonelyplanet.com/puerto-rico/san-juan


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About the author: Topiclo Admin

Writing code, prose, and occasionally poetry.

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