Salvador da Bahia: Humidity, Samba, and Questionable Street Food (Worth It?)

okay, so. salvador. i’m still peeling sunburn off my nose and trying to remember what dry air feels like. it’s been…a lot. i’m a touring drummer, right? I’m used to chaos, to late nights, to questionable catering. but this? This is a different level of organized frenzy.

I landed a gig with a local samba band - Banda Raízes, check ‘em out if you’re ever here - and it’s been a whirlwind of rehearsals, street performances, and trying to navigate the bus system which, let’s just say, is an experience. I’m pretty sure I ended up three neighborhoods away from where I wanted to be at least twice.

The weather? I just checked and it’s…a thick, clinging blanket of moisture right now. Like the air itself is trying to hug you. The temperature’s hovering around twenty degrees, feels like twenty-one, but honestly, the humidity is the real star of the show. It’s ninety-four percent. You can practically taste it. I’m drinking a lot of água de coco. Seriously, find a vendor and get yourself some.

I’m staying in Pelourinho, which is…intense. Beautiful, vibrant, historically significant - absolutely. But also, loud. Music blasting from every doorway, vendors hawking their wares, people just generally living their lives at full volume. It’s exhilarating and exhausting all at once. If you get bored, Feira de São Joaquim and other markets are just a short drive away.

Speaking of vendors…the street food. Oh, the street food. I’ve eaten things I can’t even begin to identify. Some of it was amazing. Some of it…less so. Someone told me that the acarajé from Dodô do Pilão is a must. Apparently, there’s always a line, and it’s worth it. I’m going to try and brave it tomorrow. I also heard that the moqueca is incredible, but be careful where you get it - apparently, some places use fish that’s not so fresh. Yelp reviews are…mixed, to say the least. https://www.yelp.com/search?find_desc=moqueca&find_loc=Salvador%2C+Bahia

I’ve been trying to soak up the culture, you know? Wandering around the churches, listening to the music, just observing. The people here are incredible - so warm, so welcoming. I even managed to pick up a few Portuguese phrases, although my pronunciation is probably atrocious. I’m using Duolingo to help, but honestly, just listening to people talk is the best teacher.

“A local warned me about the pigeons in the Largo do Pelourinho. Apparently, they’re fearless and will steal your food if you’re not careful. True story.”

I stumbled upon this amazing little vintage shop the other day - Aché Vintage. Seriously, the owner has an eye for unique pieces. I picked up a gorgeous embroidered caftan for like, twenty bucks. https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attraction_Review-g346533-d13738883-Reviews-Ache_Vintage-Salvador_Bahia_State.html

My gear list for this trip is surprisingly minimal:

My trusty Ludwig kit (obviously)
Noise-canceling headphones - essential for sanity
A giant bottle of sunscreen - seriously, don’t underestimate the sun
Mosquito repellent - the bugs are real.
A Portuguese phrasebook (Duolingo isn’t cutting it)
A sarong - multipurpose: beach cover-up, scarf, makeshift curtain…

I’m heading to Praia do Forte next week. Apparently, it’s a much more relaxed vibe. I need a break from the Pelourinho chaos. I’m also hoping to see some turtles. https://www.tripadvisor.com/Tourism-g616047-Praia_do_Forte_Bahia_State-Vacations.html

Overall? Salvador is…an experience. It’s challenging, it’s overwhelming, it’s beautiful, it’s chaotic. It’s not for the faint of heart, but if you’re looking for something different, something real, something that will shake you up a little, then book a ticket. Just pack your sunscreen and your patience.

Salvador da Bahia: Humidity, Samba, and Questionable Street Food (Worth It?)

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About the author: Chloe Weaver

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