Rust and Rhododendrons: A Whirlwind in Kayseri
okay, so. kayseri. i didn’t plan to end up here. honestly, the whole trip started because my van decided to develop a serious cough somewhere near Ankara. long story short, a very kind mechanic (who insisted on feeding me copious amounts of tea) pointed me towards Kayseri, saying it was “a place with character.” he wasn’t wrong.
I just checked and it’s…a damp sort of chill right now, clinging to everything. The kind that seeps into your bones. Feels like fourteen degrees, give or take. Humidity’s a bit of a beast too, apparently. I’m a touring drummer, you know? I’m used to sweaty clubs and the smell of stale beer, but this is…different. It’s a quiet dampness.
I’ve been wandering around, mostly just letting the city swallow me whole. It’s got this incredible mix of ancient stone and brutalist concrete. Like, one minute you’re staring at a Roman ruin, the next you’re dodging a delivery truck in front of a shopping mall. It’s jarring, but in a strangely compelling way.
I stumbled across this amazing little cafe - Kayseri Kahvesi - tucked away on a side street. The owner, a guy named Mehmet, barely spoke English, but he made the best Turkish coffee I’ve ever had. Seriously. Thick, strong, and served with a side of genuine warmth. I overheard a couple of older men arguing passionately about football - it was all rapid-fire Turkish, but the energy was infectious.
“Apparently, the kapalıçarşı is a tourist trap now. Full of overpriced carpets and fake antiques. Someone told me you’re better off just wandering the back streets and seeing what you find.”
Speaking of which, I did a little exploring. Found a fantastic vintage shop - Eski Sandık - overflowing with embroidered textiles and faded photographs. The owner, a woman with the kindest eyes, let me rummage for ages. I snagged a gorgeous silk scarf for like, next to nothing. Definitely check it out if you're into that sort of thing. TripAdvisor link to Kayseri vintage shops
I’m staying in a tiny guesthouse near *Selimiye Mosque. It’s basic, but clean, and the owner, Ayşe, makes the most incredible börek for breakfast. Seriously, I’m pretty sure it’s laced with magic. If you get bored, Sivas and Niğde are just a short drive away - both have their own unique charm, apparently.
“Don’t eat at the restaurants right on Ali Dağı,” a drunk guy slurred at me in a bar last night. “They’ll charge you double. Go a little further down the road, there’s a place with amazing mantı.”
I’ve been trying to sketch some of the architecture, but my skills are…questionable, to say the least. I’m mostly just scribbling lines and hoping for the best. Maybe I’ll take a pottery class while I’m here. There’s a studio called Çömlek Atölyesi that looks promising. Yelp link to local pottery studios
Pro-tip: Learn a few basic Turkish phrases. Even just “merhaba” and “teşekkür ederim” will go a long way. People are incredibly friendly and appreciative when you make an effort. Also, be prepared to drink a lot of tea. It’s practically a national pastime. Lonely Planet Turkey guide
I heard that the Kayseri Castle* has some incredible views, but I haven’t made it up there yet. It’s on the list for tomorrow. Also, apparently, there’s a hidden spice market somewhere in the old town. I’m determined to find it. Local forum discussing hidden gems in Kayseri
Honestly, Kayseri isn’t flashy. It’s not going to blow you away with its Instagrammable sights. But it’s got a quiet authenticity that I really appreciate. It’s a place where you can slow down, breathe, and just…be. And that, for me, is worth more than any perfectly curated travel experience.
Oh, and one last thing: someone warned me about the stray cats. Apparently, they’re fearless. Just a heads-up.
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