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Quetta: Dust, Chai, and a Whole Lot of Questions

@Luna Sterling3/16/2026blog
Quetta: Dust, Chai, and a Whole Lot of Questions

okay, so quetta. it’s…a lot. i landed with absolutely zero expectations, honestly, just chasing a weird tip from a *busker i met in lahore about a hidden music scene. turns out, “hidden” is an understatement.


first impressions? dry. like, really dry. i just checked and it’s…the air is holding onto everything, clinging to your skin like a second layer. the weather report said sixteen point six six degrees, feels like fourteen point nine eight, pressure’s a solid one zero one zero, humidity’s at twenty-three, and the sea level is also one zero one zero, but honestly, numbers don’t even begin to cover it. it’s a heat that settles in you, not just on you.

Man with seashell headdress and exposed torso


my accommodation is…an experience. let’s just say the “guesthouse” is run by a woman named bibi who communicates primarily through gestures and a very intense stare. she offered me a plate of something that might have been dates, but i politely declined. i’m sticking to bottled water and street chai for now. speaking of, the chai is phenomenal. seriously, the best i’ve had in pakistan. i found a little stall near the bazaar and the guy, akbar, makes it with cardamom and something else i couldn’t quite place.

blockquote>
“apparently, the best kebabs are at a place called ‘the hole in the wall’ but you gotta go after midnight. that’s when the real chefs come out.”
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i overheard that from a couple of guys playing carrom at a nearby cafe. i’m skeptical, but also…intrigued. i checked out TripAdvisor and it’s…sparse. a lot of warnings about security, which, yeah, is definitely present. there’s a military presence everywhere, which is unsettling, but people seem to go about their lives.

Abstract artwork of a distressed coat with embedded objects.


the music scene? still searching. i’ve been wandering through the older parts of the city, getting lost in the labyrinthine streets. i stumbled upon a workshop where they were making traditional balochi embroidery - absolutely stunning work. i also found a tiny record store crammed with vinyl. the owner, a wizened old man named rahim, didn’t speak a word of english, but he understood my enthusiasm for music. he gave me a dusty old qawwali record as a gift.

someone told me that the fruit market is a must-see, especially in the evenings. apparently, it’s a riot of colors and smells. i’m planning to check it out tomorrow. i also heard that the hazara town area is worth visiting, but i’m a little hesitant given the security situation. i’ve been reading up on it on local forums.

i’m staying near jinnah road*, and if you get bored, ziarat is just a short drive away, apparently. i’m not sure about that yet, honestly. i’m still trying to process quetta itself. it’s not a pretty city, not in the postcard sense. it’s rough around the edges, dusty, and a little bit intimidating. but it’s also…real. it feels like a place that hasn’t been sanitized for tourists.

A golden dragon is centered in an ornate ceiling.


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“don’t trust anyone who offers you ‘special’ tea. just…don’t.”
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that was a piece of advice from a taxi driver. i’m not entirely sure what it meant, but i’m taking it to heart. i’ve been relying on Yelp for restaurant recommendations, but honestly, the reviews are scarce. i’m mostly just following my nose and hoping for the best. i also found this blog post about Quetta's hidden gems. it's a bit dated, but still helpful.

i’m starting to think the music scene is less about a specific venue and more about the atmosphere of the city itself - the constant hum of life, the call to prayer echoing through the streets, the rhythmic clatter of the chai glasses. it’s a different kind of music, a different kind of vibe. and i’m starting to get into it.

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About the author: Luna Sterling

Writer, thinker, and occasional over-thinker.

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