Porto’s Sticky Secrets & Slightly Broken Shoes

okay, so i’m pretty sure i’m running on fumes and lukewarm espresso. i landed in porto yesterday, and honestly, it’s… a lot. like, a beautiful, crumbling, slightly damp a lot. i’m talking cobblestones that actively try to trip you, buildings that lean like they’re perpetually gossiping, and a humidity that’s clinging to me like a second skin. i just checked and it's...there right now, hope you like that kind of thing. it’s 23.3 degrees feels like, 22.92, and the pressure is 1014. feels good, ya know?

my phone died about an hour in, which is always a disaster. i’m relying on the kindness of strangers and the sporadic wifi at cafes - which, by the way, are amazing. seriously, the coffee here is next level. i’m talking dark, rich, bitter, and served with a side of existential dread. i need to find a decent place to get a refill, stat.

first thing i did was wander around the Ribeira district. it’s insane. like, a riot of color and sound. boats bobbing in the Douro, people shouting, music spilling out of bars… it’s a sensory overload in the best way possible. i almost lost my footing three times, which, as a touring session drummer, is a legitimate concern.

someone told me that the Livraria Lello is worth the hype, but the line is brutal. i’m debating whether to brave it or just admire it from across the street. i’m leaning towards admiring. i’m not a huge fan of crowds, and my patience is currently hovering somewhere around zero. i’m also pretty sure i saw a guy selling suspiciously cheap sunglasses - red flag city.

found a little tasca (a traditional Portuguese restaurant) tucked away down a side street. it was called ‘O Forcado’ - the hook. appropriately named, i guess. i had the tripas à moda do Porto (tripe stew). it’s… an experience. let’s just leave it at that. i’m pretty sure my stomach is currently staging a minor rebellion.

Someone at the bar said, ‘Don’t trust the pigeons. They’re watching.’ Seriously. They’re everywhere. And judging.

my shoes are already a mess. i’m talking mud, cobblestones, and a general sense of despair. i need to invest in some serious waterproof boots. seriously, waterproof boots are a must for porto. i’m thinking something with a good tread and a healthy dose of sarcasm.

*Pro-Tip: Download offline maps. Seriously. Don’t be like me and wander aimlessly, hoping to stumble upon something amazing. it rarely works.

Local Advice: Don’t go to the Mercado do Bolhão unless you enjoy being elbowed and shouted at. It’s a beautiful market, but it’s also a chaotic one.

Gear List (because i’m always forgetting things):
Waterproof boots (obviously)
Portable charger (essential)
Camera (duh)
Phrasebook (portuguese is a beast)
Snacks (for when the tasca runs out of food)
* A healthy dose of cynicism

if you get bored, Vila Nova de Gaia is just a short drive away. they have the port wine cellars, which are pretty cool. i’m not a huge wine drinker, but it’s worth a look. i heard that the Sandeman cellars are particularly impressive.

seriously, porto is weird. it’s gritty, it’s charming, it’s confusing, and it’s utterly captivating. it’s the kind of place that gets under your skin and refuses to let go. i’m starting to think i’m going to stay a little longer. maybe even buy a slightly dilapidated apartment overlooking the Douro. just kidding… mostly.

check out TripAdvisor for some decent restaurant recommendations: https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurants-g190943-Porto_Portugal.html

and for a local board with events: https://www.portugalvisitor.com/events/porto/

and if you're looking for a good place to grab a bite, Yelp has some good options: https://www.yelp.com/directory/porto

if you're looking for more information about the city, this is a good resource: https://www.visitporto.travel/en/

okay, i’m going to go find another espresso. wish me luck.

Porto’s Sticky Secrets & Slightly Broken Shoes

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About the author: Clara Moon

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