Porto: Rain, Sardines, and Seriously Weird Vibes
okay, so i’m pretty sure i’m running on fumes and lukewarm espresso. i landed in porto yesterday, and honestly, it’s… a lot. the humidity is clinging to everything like a damp wool blanket - 57% and dropping, according to the little gadget i’m surgically attached to. the pressure’s at 1018, which feels… heavy. like the city itself is pressing down. it’s 15.23 degrees, feels like 14.3, temp min 15.23, temp max 15.23. i just checked and it's...there right now, hope you like that kind of thing.
porto is just… chaotic. beautiful chaotic. like a really intense jazz solo. i’m staying in this tiny place near Ribeira - it’s basically a glorified cupboard with a view of the Douro. the walls are painted this aggressively cheerful yellow, which is… unsettling. i overheard a guy at the bar - he looked like he hadn’t slept in a week and was nursing a massive gin and tonic - telling me that the best tripas à moda do Porto (tripe stew) is at a place called Casa Guedes. someone told me that the owner, Manuel, has a surprisingly detailed collection of vintage postcards. i’m not sure i’m brave enough to try the tripas, but i’m definitely going to check out Casa Guedes.
I spent the afternoon wandering around the Luís I Bridge - seriously, it’s massive. like, ridiculously huge. you can walk across it and get insane views of the city. it’s a bit of a trek, but totally worth it. i almost tripped over a guy playing a mournful tune on a Portuguese guitar. he looked like he’d been practicing for centuries. i’m trying to capture the light here, you know? it’s this weird, diffused glow, like the city is perpetually shrouded in a gentle mist.
Speaking of light, i need to talk about the rain. it’s constant. a fine, persistent drizzle that just… permeates everything. it’s not dramatic, not torrential, just… there. it’s actually kind of soothing, in a weird way. i’m thinking of buying a ridiculously oversized umbrella. maybe two.
Here’s the gear list, because someone needs to keep track of this madness:
Camera (obviously) - the Sony a7iii is a beast, but i’m constantly worried about dropping it.
Rain gear - seriously, invest in good rain gear. like, really good rain gear.
Comfortable shoes - you’ll be doing a lot of walking.
A notebook and pen - for capturing all the weirdness.
A ridiculously large coffee mug - essential for survival.
Earplugs - the city is loud.
I found this amazing little shop selling vintage buttons - seriously, rows and rows of them. it was like stepping back in time. i bought a whole bag of them. i have no idea what i’m going to do with them, but they’re pretty.
I stumbled across a street art festival happening in Vila Nova de Gaia - it was wild. tons of murals, graffiti, and installations. i saw this one artist who was painting a giant octopus wearing a fez. it was… memorable. i heard that the local wine scene is incredible - you absolutely have to try the Vinho Verde. check out TripAdvisor for some recommendations: https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurants-g190003-Porto_Portugal.html.
And if you’re looking for a good place to eat, Yelp has some solid options: https://www.yelp.com/directory/porto-portugal.
I’m heading out to explore the Livraria Lello - apparently, it’s one of the most beautiful bookstores in the world. i heard that J.K. Rowling was inspired by it while she was living in Porto. i’m not a huge Harry Potter fan, but the architecture looks incredible.
Seriously, Porto is a mess. a beautiful, chaotic, rain-soaked mess. but it’s got a soul. and a surprisingly good coffee scene. if you get bored, Vila Nova de Gaia is just a short drive away.
Oh, and one last thing: don’t trust anyone who tells you the best sardines are at a specific restaurant. it’s a rumor. a persistent, delicious rumor.
Check out this local board for events: https://www.eventbrite.com/d/portugal--porto/
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