Perm and Perpetual Damp: A Week in Perm, Russia

okay, so perm. russia. didn't exactly top my list of "places olivia needs to hit up before thirty," but here we are. i'm a vintage clothes picker, right? and apparently, perm is…a thing. a serious thing. like, soviet-era goldmine levels of a thing.

let me preface this by saying i’m running on approximately three hours of sleep and a questionable amount of instant coffee. the flight was…an experience. mostly involving a baby and a man who insisted on loudly narrating his crossword puzzle. but perm. it’s…grey. consistently. i just checked and it’s…actively weeping right now, hope you’re into that sort of atmospheric gloom. it’s not cold cold, hovering around a couple of degrees, but the humidity is insane. like, ninety-nine percent. you feel like you’re walking through a lukewarm cloud.

so, the clothes. oh, the clothes. i spent a solid day just wandering through the various markets - the one near *KomsoMolsky Prospekt is legendary, apparently. i overheard someone saying it’s where all the babushkas offload their family heirlooms. and it’s true! i snagged a stunning 1960s fur hat (don’t judge, it was a steal) and a silk scarf with a print i can only describe as “aggressively floral.” the prices are insane, like, genuinely unbelievable. you can haggle, but you have to do it with respect. i tried the whole “sad tourist” routine and it worked surprisingly well. check out this forum for some tips: https://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowForum-g298559-i8337-Perm_Perm_Krai_Urals_Russia.html.

“Don’t trust anyone who offers you ‘special’ vodka. Just…don’t.”

that was a warning from the guy running the hostel. a very stern warning. i didn’t ask for details. some things are better left unknown. the hostel itself is…rustic. let’s go with rustic. it’s run by a woman named svetlana who speaks approximately three words of english, but communicates entirely through enthusiastic gestures and offers of tea. it’s charming, in a slightly terrifying way.

food-wise, it’s…hearty. lots of potatoes. lots of meat. i tried something called “pelmeni” which are basically russian dumplings. they were good! i also stumbled upon a little cafe near the Perm State Art Gallery that served the most amazing borscht. seriously, life-changing borscht. someone told me that the cafe is owned by a retired ballerina who still insists on wearing sequins to work. i didn’t see the sequins, but i choose to believe it’s true. you can find some reviews here: https://www.yelp.com/search?find_desc=Restaurants&find_loc=Perm%2C+Russia.

getting around is…an adventure. the public transport system is extensive, but deciphering it is a challenge. i’ve mostly relied on taxis, which are surprisingly affordable. just make sure you agree on a price beforehand. i heard that some drivers try to rip off tourists, especially if you look confused (which, let’s be honest, i usually do). if you get bored, Kazan and Ekaterinburg* are just a short train ride away. i haven't had time to check them out this trip, but they're on the list for next time.

overall, perm is…unexpected. it’s not glamorous, it’s not polished, but it’s real. it’s a city with a history, a character, and a surprising amount of vintage treasure. and honestly? i’m kind of digging it. i'm already planning my next trip. maybe i'll bring a better umbrella. and a phrasebook. and possibly a translator. https://www.lonelyplanet.com/russia/perm has some useful info too.

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