Okinawa, Japan: Lost My Mind (and Maybe My Wallet)
okay, so. okinawa. i’m still kind of processing it, honestly. i just checked and it’s drizzling a persistent, almost mournful rain there right now, hope you like that kind of thing. it’s not exactly the postcard-perfect turquoise beaches you see, but… it’s got a vibe. a weird vibe. like, ancient spirits and karaoke bars fighting for dominance.
I was supposed to be scouting locations for a documentary - indie film stuff, you know? Something about the Ryukyu Kingdom and its connection to… well, a lot of things. But I mostly ended up wandering around, eating questionable street food, and trying to decipher the local dialect. It’s a beautiful place, don’t get me wrong. The *coastline is stunning, even under a grey sky. And the people… they’re something else.
I spent a ridiculous amount of time in Naha, the capital. It’s… intense. Neon everywhere, tiny alleyways crammed with shops selling everything from dried squid to elaborate ceramic dolls. I stumbled into this tiny bar - seriously, like, four seats - and the bartender, this guy with a handlebar mustache and a permanent smirk, started telling me stories about Shuri Castle. Apparently, it’s haunted.
“Don’t go near Shuri Castle after dark,” he slurred, wiping down the counter with a rag. “The spirits of the Ryukyu kings… they don’t like tourists.”
I’m not usually one for ghost stories, but the way he said it… and the three glasses of Awamori I’d already consumed… well, let’s just say I considered it. I ended up checking out TripAdvisor reviews for Shuri Castle - mostly just people complaining about the crowds, thankfully. https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attraction_Review-g298563-d329838-Reviews-Shuri_Castle_Park-Naha_Okinawa_Prefecture_Kyushu.html
I also spent a day exploring Chatan, which is a bit more… Americanized. Lots of military bases, burger joints, and karaoke bars. I overheard someone complaining about the lack of authentic Okinawan food. “It’s all just Americanized garbage,” they grumbled. I’m not sure I agree entirely, but I did miss a good bowl of soba. I found a decent ramen place on Yelp though. https://www.yelp.com/search?find_desc=ramen&find_loc=Chatan%2C+Okinawa%2C+Japan
Speaking of food, I tried this thing called goya champuru. It’s… an experience. Bitter melon, tofu, pork… it’s definitely an acquired taste. Someone told me that it’s supposed to be really good for you, though. Apparently, it’s a local superfood. I also heard a rumor that the best goya champuru in Naha is at this tiny, unmarked restaurant near Kokusai Street. I didn’t find it, but I’m still searching.
I’m pretty sure I lost my wallet somewhere between the Kokusai Street market and a karaoke bar. I’m not even sure how it happened. It’s a blur of flashing lights, questionable dance moves, and a whole lot of Awamori. I’m hoping it turns up. If not, well, that’s a story for another blog post.
If you get bored, Kagoshima and Fukuoka are just a short ferry ride away. I didn't make it there this time, but I'm already planning my return trip. I need to find that goya champuru and maybe, just maybe, confront the ghosts of Shuri Castle.
Oh, and one more thing: apparently, the local cats are very* territorial. Don’t mess with the cats. Seriously. I learned that the hard way. Check out this local forum for more tips: https://www.okinawatravelinfo.com/
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