medellin: how i learned to stop worrying and love the $1 meal

so i landed in medellin after a 20-hour journey that involved three planes and a questionable bus. the second i stepped out of José María Córdova International Airport, the air hit me like a warm, humid hug. i just checked my weather app and it's sitting at 23.08 degrees, feels like 23.19, humidity 67% - basically, i'm a human popsicle that's melting just right. pressure's 1009, whatever that means, and the ground level's 959 which i'm told is why my ears pop when i take the metro cable. all i know is it's perfect weather for getting lost in Comuna 13 without freezing or boiling. i'm already sweaty and i haven't even left the airport parking lot. hope you like that kind of thing.

first order of business: a hostel that doesn't require a second mortgage. i ended up at Hostel Teléfono (not the real name, but you get it) in Poblado for $8 a night. the bed was a mattress on a wooden board, the shower was lukewarm at best, and the guy in the bunk above me snored like a chainsaw. but the view from the roof? overlooking the entire valley with all those colorful houses climbing the hills? worth every penny. someone told me that the best hostels are actually in Laureles because it's quieter, but i'm a glutton for punishment and proximity to nightlife. i've been using this TripAdvisor forum where travelers spill the beans on which hostels won't rob you blind - it's saved my butt more than once.

food. oh man. you haven't lived until you've had an arepa filled with cheese and chicharrón from a lady on the street for 2000 pesos (like $0.50). i ate that for breakfast, lunch, and dinner for three days straight. i heard that the sancocho soup at the market near Parque Berrío is a steal at 5000, but be careful: they put everything in there, including chicken feet that will stare at you. i've been relying on this Yelp list of budget eats that a traveler left; it's mostly accurate except for the one place that shut down last year. classic. also, you can get a giant fruit juice for 1500 pesos from any juice bar - i'm talking mango, papaya, you name it. and the coffee? don't even get me started. $0.50 for a tinto that'll make your heart race. i'm bouncing off the walls and i'm not even mad.

getting around is easy. the metro is clean, cheap, and goes everywhere. buy a reloadable card for $2 and you're set. the cable cars (metrocable) are free with the metro card and give you insane views of the sprawling communas. someone warned me that pickpockets love the metro during rush hour, so i keep my backpack in front like a paranoid turtle. works so far. i've been taking the bus to places the metro doesn't reach - they're chaotic but cheap (1800 pesos flat rate). just watch out for the drivers who think they're Formula 1 racers.

if you get bored of the city, jump on a bus to Guatape. it's about an hour and a half away, and you'll see the giant rock (El Peñol) that you can climb for like $5. the views are insane, and you can rent a kayak on the lake for cheap. i heard that Santa Fe de Antioquia is also worth a day trip - it's colonial and has a famous church that's supposed to be healing or something. i skipped it because i was too busy eating, but a couple of aussies i met swore by the cobblestone streets. also, if you're feeling adventurous, take a trip to the coffee region - it's like 3 hours away and you can stay on a finca for $10 a night. i haven't done it yet, but it's on my list.

nightlife: Poblado is where it's at, but it's touristy. i prefer the bars in Comuna 13 where the locals go. there's this one spot that's just a garage with a DJ and cheap Aguila beer (2000 pesos). someone told me that if you're alone, you should stick to well-lit areas after dark. i've been fine, but i'm also a 6'2" guy with a resting bitch face, so your mileage may vary. also, beware of the guys selling "cheap" drugs on the street - it's usually a scam or worse. i heard that the police are actually pretty chill if you're respectful, but don't test them.

overall, medellin is a place where your money goes far, the people are surprisingly friendly (even when you butcher Spanish), and the weather is basically perfect year-round. i'm gonna miss the $1 arepas, but i think i'll survive. just maybe not the hostel bunkmate's snoring. if you're planning a trip, definitely check out the Medellin Travel subreddit for up-to-date tips. also, TripAdvisor's forums have a thread called 'Medellin on a Budget' that saved me from overpaying for a tour. and Yelp's got a solid list of cheap eats that changes weekly. oh, and there's this Colombia Travel site that's gold for events and official info. see you on the road, or in the next cheap hostel bunk.

medellin: how i learned to stop worrying and love the $1 meal

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About the author: Isabella Hart

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