Marseille Mutations: My Day of 12.21°C and Bad WiFi

woke up to the sound of a tram scraping against the pavement. no alarm clock. just the city breathing in that 12.21’c stuff everyone keeps calling ‘chilly but manageable.’ i checked the weather app and it’s literally 11.58’c feels like because i forgot to close the window last night. foggy. that’s the kind of fog where you open your eyes and it’s already there, like that one friend who shows up uninvited. what do you do? just pretend you didn’t see it, i guess.

tried to walk to the market but my phone died. classic trip so far. the neighborhood here is like a stairwell that refuses to go anywhere you want. i passed a guy in a trench coat shouting about ‘the boss’ and immediately doubled back. neighbor advice? ‘if you get lost, the hills are just a short drive away.’ nice. i got more lost.

ate a croissant that was probably stolen from a baker’s dream. not sure if that’s a positive. tasted like guilt and maybe almond. bought it from a stall that had a sign saying ‘fresh’ in 10 different languages. included ‘español’ even though there’s no spanish-speakers here. weird flex.

someone told me that the museum of african science is closing for ‘reasons.’ didn’t ask. just nodded and kept walking. later, overheard a couple arguing about a parking spot. ‘you think this is a democracy?’ she yelled. ‘i think this is a parking crisis,’ he responded. later i heard a vendor yelling about a rat. don’t ask. it was either poetic or terrifying. i left.

bought a jacket from a vintage shop. owner was a retired chef who claimed he packed it for a trip to south america but ‘kept it because it screams personality.’ i asked if it was authentic and he just said ‘you’re paying for the story.’ turned out it’s from 1982. who cares? i liked it.

fell into a public square with a giant chess set. people were playing but no one seemed to care. maybe they’re all waiting for the end of the world. or maybe it’s just monday. i joined in. lost three turns. quit. found a coffee cart nearby and ordered a latte. barista poured it twice. said ‘you’re welcome’ after the second time. tried to ask why and he just giggled. probably knew i was a tourist.

weather was okay. not great. 12.21’c max. no sun, just that gray blanket. decamped to a park and sat under a tree. it was cold enough to make me want to cuddle but the tree was just a stick. neighbor tip: ‘if you need warmth, the train station has heaters. also, no one will stop you from squatting there.’ i didn’t. but i did notice a group of teenagers playing frisbee. they were all wearing boots and one had a headlamp on. respect.

heard a rumor that the old library here is haunted. specifically by a 19th-century librarian who loved cats. ‘she’s still there,’ someone whispered. ‘you’ll know when you see her.’ i brought a flashlight. no cats. just a moth and a lot of regret.

left for the day with a backpack full of uncertainty. walked past a board that said ‘live music tonight’ but couldn’t find it. asked a local and they said ‘it’s a rumor. but if you insist, check thetrain.’ took their word. ended up headbanging to a flamenco playlist in a bar. weird flex again. the bartender offered me a dance. i said no. vowed to buy a flask.

someone warned me that the boats here are ‘not for the faint of heart.’ i took that as a sign. didn’t go to sea. instead, I boarded a night bus to the hills. neighbors said they’d have good views. turns out, the hills are just hills. full of sheep and old windmills. stopped at a roadside stall for kaffir lime. price was ‘5 euros or a story.’ i gave the story. he said ‘fine.’ i got the lime. it smelled like regret.

in the end, i realized this place is just a series of bad decisions and mixed signals. the weather was okay. the neighbors were approximately reality. the reviews? all garbage. but hey, at least i got a jacket and a story about a chef who lived in the 80s. maybe that’s what this city is about. stories. and fog. and pretending you’re not lost. maybe that’s the vibe.

some links if you care: https://www.tripadvisor.com/ratings/france/414067/marseille_hotels.html (for hotels that are definitely real). https://www.yelp.com/search?find_desc=markets&find_loc=Marseille (because sure, why not). https://www.reddit.com/r/marseille (ignore the tourists). https://www.localsonly.com/marseille (doubt they’ll answer your questions).

oh, and here’s a map of my randomness:

photos:

You might also be interested in:

• https://votoris.com/post/dsseldorf-rain-records-and-really-weird-currywurst
• https://votoris.com/post/the-cost-of-living-in-mosul-monthly-budget-breakdown
• https://votoris.com/post/osogbos-suburbs-where-desi-shouldnt-play-and-why-i-almost-picked-a-custard-factory-for-rent
• https://votoris.com/post/semarang-nightlife-the-bars-youll-actually-survive-safe-zones-that-dont-feel-like-a-spreadsheet
• https://votoris.com/post/louisville-wages-vs-reality-a-freelance-photographers-take