Kyoto Chaos: Noodles, Ghosts, and Seriously Weird Rain
okay, so, i’m pretty sure i’m running on caffeine and regret. 1863528 and 1392876311 - don’t ask. it’s a thing. the air here is thick, like humid velvet, and the humidity is sitting at 79%. pressure’s 1021, sea level’s 947, which is…fine, i guess? it feels like being underwater, but not in a good way. i just checked and it's...there right now, hope you like that kind of thing.
Kyoto. seriously? i went in expecting temples and matcha, and i got…well, a lot. mostly noodles. and a concerning amount of rain that smells faintly of moss.
I’m staying in this tiny guesthouse near *Gion, which is basically a glorified shoebox with a view of a very grumpy cat. The owner, a woman named Hana, keeps offering me pickled plums. i politely decline. she just nods and shuffles off. she’s got this whole ‘don’t bother me’ vibe going on, which is honestly refreshing. if you get bored, Osaka is just a short drive away.
I spent yesterday wandering around Fushimi Inari-taisha, which is basically a mountain covered in thousands of red torii gates. it’s beautiful, sure, but also exhausting. my calves are screaming. i swear i saw a fox shadow once, but it could’ve been the noodles.
Someone told me that the best ramen is at Ichiran, but I heard that it’s always packed. I’m sticking with the place down the street - it smells vaguely of fish and desperation, but the noodles are good. really good.
I also did a ghost tour last night. yeah, you heard me. a ghost tour. in Kyoto. it was…interesting. our guide, a guy named Kenji, claimed to have communicated with a restless samurai who was obsessed with origami. he kept pointing at a nearby shop selling paper cranes. it was unsettling.
Here’s the gear list, because apparently, i need to document everything:
My battered camera (obviously) - needs a new lens, tbh.
A ridiculously oversized backpack - it’s basically a portable apartment.
A notebook full of scribbled thoughts and questionable drawings.
A portable charger - because i’m perpetually out of juice.
A phrasebook - mostly useless, but i like the pictures.
And a whole lot of instant noodles.
I stumbled across this little tea house tucked away in a side street. the owner, an old man with a surprisingly sharp wit, told me that the rain in Kyoto is “the tears of the gods.” i’m not sure if that’s true, but it sounded pretty dramatic.
I also found a map of the city on a local board - it’s mostly just scribbled with recommendations for hidden temples and tiny ramen shops. i’m adding it to my collection of useless maps.
“Don’t trust the geishas. They’re all secretly plotting something.” - A drunk tourist i met at the bar. Seriously.
Seriously, the rain is relentless. it’s like a constant, gentle drizzle that seeps into everything. i’m starting to think i’m developing a permanent dampness.
I’m heading to Arashiyama Bamboo Grove tomorrow. i heard it’s incredibly peaceful, but also swarming with tourists. wish me luck.
I’m also trying to find a decent matcha latte. it’s proving to be a surprisingly difficult task.
“The best way to experience Kyoto is to get lost. Just don’t get too* lost.” - A local warned me about wandering off the main streets. Smart move.
I’m thinking of checking out some of the smaller, less-touristy temples tonight. maybe i’ll even spot a fox.
I’m gonna go find some more noodles.
Kyoto Tourism
Gion District
Ichiran Ramen
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