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Kyiv: Cold Hands, Warm Borscht, and a Whole Lotta History

@Hugo Barrett3/14/2026blog

okay, so kyiv. it’s…a lot. i’m a freelance photographer, usually chasing light in places people haven’t really seen yet, and this place is definitely seen. but not necessarily understood, you know? i landed with a head full of steam and a camera bag heavier than my questionable life choices.


i just checked and it’s…like breathing ice right now, honestly. six point nine nine degrees celsius, but feels like three point four nine. which, let’s be real, is just a fancy way of saying “pack all the layers.” the air pressure is kinda weird too, 1022, feels like it’s sitting on your chest a little. humidity’s at forty-four percent, so your skin feels like a dried apricot. delightful.


first impressions? *gold. everywhere. domes, statues, even some of the older buildings have this insane gilded detail. it’s beautiful, but also…a little overwhelming. like, “okay, calm down, kyiv, you’re showing off.” i spent the first day just wandering around Maidan Nezalezhnosti, trying to get my bearings. it’s a huge square, obviously, and always buzzing with something. i found a decent little coffee shop - Black Bean Coffee - they actually know what they’re doing, which is a win. seriously, finding good coffee is half my travel budget.

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“apparently, the guys running the souvenir stalls near St. Sophia’s Cathedral are ruthless. like, haggle hard, or you’ll end up paying double.”
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that’s what some dude with a surprisingly good beard told me while we were both waiting for the metro. the metro, by the way, is a work of art. seriously. it’s like traveling through an underground palace. and it’s cheap! way cheaper than cabs. speaking of which, i heard that the taxi drivers will try to rip you off if you don’t have a local sim card and use Uber or Bolt. so, get a sim card.


food-wise, you have to try the borscht. i mean, it’s kyiv, it’s practically mandatory. i went to this place called Puzata Hata - it’s a cafeteria-style place, super cheap and cheerful. the borscht was…life-changing. seriously. and the varenyky (dumplings) were amazing. i also tried some salo (cured pork fat). it’s…an experience. let’s just leave it at that.

my neighbors seem to be mostly students and older folks. if you get bored, chernihiv and zhytomyr are just a short train ride away. i’m thinking of heading to chernihiv next, apparently it’s got some incredible ancient ruins. i’ve been reading up on it on Ukraine Travel.

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“don’t trust anyone who offers to ‘help’ you change money on the street. it’s a scam, apparently. stick to the banks or ATMs.”
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that was a bit of drunk advice from a guy i met in a bar near Khreshchatyk Street*. he also warned me about pickpockets, so keep your valuables close. i’ve been trying to capture the city’s vibe with my camera, but it’s hard. it’s a city of contrasts - ancient history and modern life, wealth and poverty, beauty and decay. it’s messy, chaotic, and utterly captivating. i’m still trying to figure it out, but that’s kind of the point, right?


and the people? mostly just trying to get by, like everywhere else. but they’re resilient, and they have a sense of humor. i overheard someone complaining about the traffic, saying it was “like a herd of angry babushkas on scooters.” which, honestly, is a pretty accurate description. i'm also checking out Kyiv City Guide for some hidden gems.

so yeah, kyiv. it’s cold, it’s complicated, and it’s definitely worth a visit. just pack warm clothes, learn a few basic ukrainian phrases, and be prepared to be surprised.

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About the author: Hugo Barrett

Just a human trying to be helpful on the internet.

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