Kutaisi Chaos: Lost in Georgia's Embrace

okay, so i just landed in kutaisi. 354502… what even is that? some flight number, i guess. and 1818743040? feels like a password to a forgotten dimension. the temp is hovering around 11.93 celsius, feels like 10.69. breezy, but not unpleasant. definitely not the scorching heat i was expecting.

this place is… a lot. the air smells like damp earth and something vaguely floral, maybe from the gardens near the *Bagrati Cathedral. i’m staying in a little guesthouse near the Rioni River. the owners, nana and giorgi, are the sweetest. nana keeps trying to feed me everything. i’m pretty sure i’m going to gain five pounds in the next three days just from her hospitality.

Courtyard with traditional architecture and a small tree

my plan is… well, i don't really have a plan. mostly just wander and get lost. i’m hoping to check out Gelati Monastery - someone told me it’s breathtaking. and of course, i need to find some khachapuri. seriously, i need to find good khachapuri.

this morning, i saw a guy playing a ridiculously melancholic tune on a duduk in the main square. it was so unexpectedly moving. i just stood there for a good ten minutes, feeling completely present. that's the kind of thing i'm hoping for on this trip - those little unexpected moments.

Neighborhood vibes here are… relaxed. a lot of old buildings, some with peeling paint, but it adds to the charm, right? there aren’t a ton of tourists milling about, which is refreshing. it feels… real.

someone told me that the local market is the place to go for authentic food and souvenirs, but be prepared to haggle. apparently, it’s a full-on negotiation experience. i heard that the cuisine is heavily influenced by Turkish and Persian flavors - definitely something i’m excited to explore. i’m also considering a day trip to Martvili Canyon - looks stunning online. TripAdvisor has some good info.

The weather is… well, it’s playing peek-a-boo. one minute it’s sunny, the next it’s drizzling. i just checked and it's...cloudy with a chance of sprinkles, there right now, hope you like that kind of thing. i’m packing a light jacket, just in case.

a large snow covered mountain in the distance

yeah, i’m totally embracing the chaos. i have a feeling this trip is going to be less about itineraries and more about just being here. i’m hoping to find some cool street art - i saw a few glimpses near the Old Town that looked promising. Yelp might have some leads.

“Don't let the lack of a plan scare you. Sometimes the best discoveries happen when you’re completely lost.” - some random quote i saw on instagram.

i'm planning on checking out the Sataplia Nature Reserve next. apparently, the dinosaur footprints are worth the trip. seriously?! i’m a sucker for dinosaurs. also, there’s a lot of talk about the local wine. i’m hoping to find a small vineyard for a tasting. i’ve heard the Imeruli variety is particularly good. Local tourism board has some details.

a view of a small village in the mountains

i’m also trying to learn a few basic georgian phrases. “gamarjoba” (hello) and “madloba” (thank you) are a good start. i suspect i’ll be butchering the pronunciation for the next few days.

and the khachapuri… oh god, the khachapuri. it’s a cheesy, eggy, delicious revelation. i’m officially obsessed.

i heard that the local coffee is strong and flavorful - i’m definitely planning on indulging. and if i get bored, cities like Batumi are just a short drive away. but honestly, i'm perfectly happy being a slow-paced explorer right now. it’s just… good. really good.

“The most beautiful discoveries are made when you stop looking for something and start paying attention to everything.” - maybe a yogi.

i’m off to explore more of the Old Town. wish me luck! and send khachapuri*. seriously.

Kutaisi Chaos: Lost in Georgia's Embrace

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About the author: Sebastian Blair

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