Kathmandu Chaos: Noodles, Dust, and a Seriously Weird Goat
okay, so. kathmandu. where do i even begin? i’m your friendly neighborhood street artist, mostly known for murals that look like they’re melting (it’s a vibe, okay?), and i just spent a week there scouting locations for a potential collaboration. let’s just say it’s… intense. like, a beautiful, overwhelming, slightly terrifying intensity.
I just checked and it's hovering around twenty-four degrees, feels like the same, which is honestly pretty decent considering the dust. You know, the kind of dust that gets everywhere. It’s in your hair, your camera bag, your dreams. I’m pretty sure I’m exhaling it right now.
I was mostly based in Thamel, which is… a lot. A sensory overload of shops selling everything from yak wool scarves to trekking gear to knock-off North Face jackets. Seriously, the sheer volume of stuff is astounding. I spent a good hour just staring at a pile of prayer flags, trying to decide which ones screamed “my aesthetic.” I ended up with three. Don’t judge.
Food-wise? Incredible. I lived on momos (dumplings) and dal bhat (lentil soup and rice). Seriously, I think I ate dal bhat every single day. It’s cheap, it’s filling, and it’s delicious. I found this tiny little place down a side alley - you’d miss it if you blinked - and the woman who runs it makes the best momos I’ve ever had. I overheard someone saying that she uses a secret blend of spices passed down through generations. Probably not true, but it sounds good, right?
“Don’t eat the street food after dark. Trust me.”
That was drunk advice from a guy I met at a bar. I ignored him. I’m still here. (Knock on wood.)
I spent a lot of time just wandering, sketching, soaking it all in. The architecture is insane - ancient temples and crumbling palaces side-by-side with modern buildings. The colors are vibrant, the smells are… potent, and the people are incredibly friendly. Everyone I met was willing to chat, share a cup of tea, and offer directions (even if those directions were completely wrong).
If you get bored, Pokhara and Chitwan National Park are just a short bus ride away. Pokhara’s supposed to have amazing views of the Annapurna range, and Chitwan is where you can go see rhinos. I didn’t have time for either, but they’re definitely on the list for next time.
*Pro-Tip #1: Learn a few basic Nepali phrases. Even just “Namaste” (hello) and “Dhanyabad” (thank you) will go a long way.
Pro-Tip #2: Bargain hard in the markets. Seriously, start at like, half the asking price. It’s expected.
Pro-Tip #3:* Be prepared for power outages. They’re common. Bring a portable charger.
I also heard from a local that the Durbar Square is still undergoing repairs after the earthquake. Apparently, some of the temples are incredibly fragile, and they’re trying to restore them as carefully as possible. It’s a bit sad to see, but also inspiring to witness the resilience of the people. You can check out the latest updates on TripAdvisor: https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attraction_Review-g293845-d163873-Reviews-Kathmandu_Durbar_Square-Kathmandu_Kathmandu_Valley_Nepal.html
Oh! And there was this goat. Just… wandering around Thamel. Completely unfazed by the chaos. It just stared at me with these knowing eyes, like it knew all the secrets of the universe. I tried to sketch it, but it kept moving. It was the most Kathmandu thing that happened to me, I think.
I’m already planning my return trip. I need to find that goat again. And eat more momos. Definitely more momos. You can find some reviews of local restaurants on Yelp: https://www.yelp.com/search?find_desc=restaurants&find_loc=Kathmandu%2C+Nepal. Also, check out this local forum for more insider tips: https://www.lonelyplanet.com/nepal/kathmandu-valley/kathmandu/forums/kathmandu
Seriously, go. Just… be prepared for anything.
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