Jerusalem: Lost My Headphones, Found a Thousand Stories (and a Really Good Falafel)
okay, so. jerusalem. where do i even begin? i’m still picking bits of hummus out of my hair, which, honestly, isn’t the worst thing. i’ve been bouncing around as a touring session drummer for, like, fifteen years now, and you see some stuff. but this… this was different. it’s not just a place, it’s a feeling. a weight. a hum. you know?
I’m usually pretty good at compartmentalizing - gotta be when you’re playing a different genre every night - but jerusalem… it seeps in. i landed on the 29th, and the weather? it’s… a sort of hazy, golden warmth. like someone left the oven on just a little too high. hope you like that kind of thing. it’s been hovering around 21.63 degrees, feels like it too, which is a win. pressure’s at 1010, humidity’s a bit of a beast at 73%, but hey, it’s jerusalem. you don’t come here expecting a breeze.
I was supposed to be here for a week, laying down tracks for some indie film composer - super chill guy, loves a good ride cymbal - but i already know i’m extending. i’m just… drawn in. i’ve been wandering around the old city, getting hopelessly lost in the souks (seriously, bring a compass, or just embrace the chaos), and just listening.
Speaking of listening, i lost my headphones on day two. completely vanished. i’m devastated. they were my Sennheisers, you know? the good ones. but honestly? it’s kind of been a blessing. forced me to be more present. to actually hear the city. the calls to prayer, the bartering in the markets, the snippets of conversations in a dozen different languages… it’s a symphony of humanity.
I’ve been staying in a little guesthouse near the Damascus Gate. it’s… rustic. let’s just say the plumbing has character. but the owner, a woman named Fatima, is an absolute gem. she makes the best cardamom coffee i’ve ever had. seriously. i’m addicted. she also gave me some amazing advice. “Don’t trust the pigeons,” she said, dead serious. “They’re spies.” i’m not sure if she was joking, but i’m keeping my distance from those feathered fiends.
“Someone told me - and i’m not naming names, but it was a very intense-looking guy with a beard and a lot of opinions - that the best hummus in the city is at Abu Shukri. Apparently, there’s always a line, and it’s worth every minute. I haven’t tried it yet, but it’s on the list.”
I’ve been trying to document everything with my phone, but it’s hard to capture the vibe. it’s… layered. ancient and modern, sacred and chaotic, beautiful and heartbreaking all at once. i’m thinking about getting a sketchbook, actually. i haven’t drawn anything seriously since i was a kid.
If you’re planning a trip, here’s a few random thoughts:
Wear comfortable shoes. you’ll be doing a lot of walking.
*Learn a few basic arabic phrases. it goes a long way.
*Bargain in the souks. it’s expected, and it’s part of the fun. (but be respectful!)
*Try the falafel. seriously, just do it. i found a place near the Western Wall that was mind-blowing. check out TripAdvisor for recommendations, but honestly, just wander and see what smells good.
*Be aware of your surroundings. it’s a generally safe city, but petty theft can happen.
*Talk to the locals. they have the best stories.
“I overheard a group of tourists complaining about the crowds. A local just shrugged and said, ‘This is jerusalem. It’s always* crowded.’ Truer words have never been spoken.”
Ramallah and Bethlehem are just a short drive away if you get bored. i’m thinking of taking a day trip to bethlehem soon. i’ve also been checking out Yelp for some hidden gem restaurants. Apparently, there’s a fantastic Armenian bakery i need to find.
Someone told me that the city is undergoing a lot of changes right now, and that it’s important to experience it while it still feels… authentic. i don’t know if that’s true, but i’m glad i’m here. i’m soaking it all in. even the pigeon paranoia.
Oh! and one last thing. check out this local forum for some insider tips and local events. it’s a goldmine.
Okay, i’m off to find that falafel. and maybe invest in a new pair of headphones. wish me luck.
You might also be interested in:
- https://votoris.com/post/muscat-where-mountains-meet-the-sea-and-i-got-lost-in-souqs
- https://votoris.com/post/biha-a-damp-lens-cap-and-a-halfremembered-melody
- https://votoris.com/post/saigon-chaos-a-coffee-snobs-lowbudget-diary
- https://votoris.com/post/neon-city-a-messy-tour
- https://votoris.com/post/shutter-fatigue-in-chandigarh