Istanbul's Grey Days and the Best Börek (Probably)
okay, so. istanbul. right? i’m elara, by the way, and i’m a botanist. mostly. right now, i’m mostly covered in dust and slightly panicked about my next grant proposal, but that’s a story for another time. this is about the city.
I landed a few days ago, and honestly? it’s been… atmospheric. i just checked and it's drizzling a persistent, almost mournful rain, the kind that clings to your eyelashes and makes everything look a little bit sepia-toned. the temperature’s hovering around seven point seven degrees, feels like three point four. not exactly ideal for identifying wildflowers, but hey, new experiences, right?
I’m staying in a tiny apartment in *Balat, which is… a lot. the building itself is gorgeous, all peeling paint and wrought iron balconies, but the street noise? intense. constant chatter, the clatter of dishes, someone practicing the oud at an ungodly hour. it’s invigorating, honestly. i’m used to the quiet hum of greenhouses, so this is a sensory overload in the best way. if you get bored, Bursa and Edirne are just a short hop on a bus, apparently.
Speaking of sensory overload, the food. oh, the food. i’ve been living on börek and Turkish coffee. seriously, I think I’ve consumed my body weight in cheese-filled pastry. someone told me that the best place for it is a tiny hole-in-the-wall near the Hippodrome, but they were, like, very insistent I go early to avoid the crowds. apparently, they sell out by ten. i’m going to try it tomorrow.
I spent a good chunk of yesterday wandering around the Grand Bazaar. it’s… overwhelming. a labyrinth of carpets, spices, and aggressively friendly vendors. I got completely lost, naturally. I ended up buying a ridiculously ornate tea set that I have absolutely no use for, but it was pretty. I think I overpaid, but who cares? it’s a souvenir!
“Don’t trust the guys selling ‘genuine’ Turkish Delight near Sultanahmet. It’s all imported sugar syrup, darling.”
I also checked out the Süleymaniye Mosque. it’s stunning. the scale of it is just… breathtaking. I overheard a group of tourists complaining about the crowds, but honestly, it’s worth it. just be respectful, cover your shoulders and knees, and try not to bump into anyone.
I’m trying to find some interesting local flora, but it’s proving difficult. most of the plants I’ve seen so far are either ornamental or struggling to survive in the urban environment. I did spot a few tenacious wildflowers clinging to life in a crack in the pavement near Taksim Square*, though. that gave me a little hope.
I’ve been using TripAdvisor to find some hidden gems, and Yelp for decent coffee shops (essential for a botanist, obviously). I also stumbled across a local forum (https://www.turkeytravelplanner.com/forum/) where people share tips and recommendations. It’s surprisingly helpful.
“The spice market is a scam. They’ll quote you crazy prices if you look like a tourist. Haggle hard, or just go somewhere else.”
I’m also checking out some local botanical gardens. I found one listed on a local board (https://www.ibb.istanbul/Haberler/1437/Istanbulda-Cicekler-Aciyor). Hopefully, I can find some interesting specimens there.
Pressure is 1000, humidity is 80%, and the ground level is 884. It’s damp, it’s grey, and it’s… kind of magical. I heard that the locals say Istanbul is a city that gets under your skin. I think they’re right. I’m already planning my return trip. Maybe next time, I’ll bring a raincoat. And a bigger suitcase for all the börek.
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