Guatemala City: Where the Concrete Blooms (and My Drumsticks Got Stolen)
okay, so. guatemala city. it’s…a lot. i’m a touring session drummer, right? usually i’m hauling gear through airports, dodging roadies, the whole shebang. this was…different. i landed, and the air just hit me. thick, humid, like a warm blanket woven from exhaust fumes and something floral i couldn’t quite place. i just checked and it's hovering around twenty-five degrees, feels like the same, pretty consistent actually. not exactly a sweat-drenched gig kind of weather, but definitely not cool either.
I was here for a short run with a local band - Los Ritmos del Sol - seriously good salsa, but the logistics…whew. finding decent rehearsal space was a nightmare. Apparently, everyone wants to rent out old colonial buildings, which are gorgeous, but not exactly soundproof. My ears are still ringing.
Speaking of colonial buildings, the *Zona 1 is stunning. Seriously, the architecture is incredible. But you gotta be aware. Someone told me that wandering around after dark is…not recommended. Like, really not recommended. Apparently, there’s a whole network of unofficial taxis that aren’t exactly licensed, and things can get dicey. I stuck to Uber, which, thankfully, is pretty reliable.
I spent a lot of time just wandering, trying to soak it all in. The Mercado Central is an assault on the senses in the best possible way. Mountains of fruit, spices, textiles…it’s overwhelming, but you gotta go. I got completely lost, naturally. Ended up buying a ridiculously oversized sombrero and a bag of something that tasted vaguely like cinnamon and sadness.
Food-wise, it was amazing. I had pepián at a tiny place near my hotel - seriously, look for the hole-in-the-wall with the grandma stirring a giant pot. It’s the best. I also tried kak’ik, which is like a turkey soup, and it was…interesting. Let’s just say it’s an acquired taste. Check out some reviews on TripAdvisor https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurants-g294303-Guatemala_City.html if you're feeling brave.
“Don’t trust anyone who offers you ‘authentic’ street food near the Parque Central,” a very drunk guy told me at a bar. “It’s probably just yesterday’s leftovers.”
My neighbors? Antigua is a gorgeous day trip, about an hour away. And if you’re into volcanoes, Pacaya is a must-see. I didn’t have time this trip, but I’m already planning a return.
Oh, and the worst part? Someone stole my drumsticks. Seriously. I left my bag unattended for five minutes* while I grabbed a coffee, and poof. Gone. I’m pretty sure it was a kid, but I didn’t even bother chasing him. Lesson learned: never leave your gear unattended, even for a second.
I found a decent pawn shop nearby, though. Yelp https://www.yelp.com/search?find_desc=pawn+shop&find_loc=Guatemala+City,+Guatemala had a few options. Managed to snag a replacement pair, slightly used, but they’ll do.
Overall? Guatemala City is chaotic, vibrant, and a little bit scary. But it’s also incredibly rewarding. It’s a city that gets under your skin, and I already miss it. I’m checking out some local music forums https://www.guatemalacity.com/en/music/ to see if I can connect with some other musicians next time I’m around. Maybe I’ll even learn to play the marimba. Who knows?
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