Dust & Echoes in Palawan: A Sticky Situation

okay, so i’m pretty sure i’m running on fumes and lukewarm instant coffee. the flight was brutal, the time zone is actively trying to kill me, and i’m pretty sure my phone is judging me. but… palawan. it’s… something. i just checked and it's...there right now, hope you like that kind of thing. 25.15 degrees, feels like 25.97, pressure’s a solid 1009, humidity’s clinging to me like a second skin - 86%. it’s like stepping into a sauna that’s also perpetually slightly damp.

i landed in Puerto Princesa, which is… chaotic. like, aggressively so. the airport smells vaguely of diesel and mangoes, which is a surprisingly unsettling combination. i immediately grabbed a tricycle - seriously, these things are everywhere - and headed towards El Nido. the drive was a blur of rice paddies, roadside stalls selling questionable seafood, and a whole lot of shouting.

my hostel, ‘The Driftwood,’ is… well, it’s a hostel. think mismatched furniture, questionable plumbing, and a surprisingly enthusiastic group of backpackers. i overheard some serious gossip about a guy named Leo who apparently tried to smuggle a live iguana through customs. someone told me that he was apprehended at the last minute and the iguana was released back into the jungle. wild. i’m not even kidding.

El Nido itself? breathtaking. seriously, the limestone cliffs rising out of the turquoise water are insane. i spent yesterday kayaking through the Big Lagoon, which was basically a giant, shimmering bowl of paradise. it was a bit crowded, though - a bunch of influencers and selfie sticks everywhere. i tried to avoid them, mostly by hiding behind particularly large rocks.

*Pro-Tip: Don’t trust the fruit vendors. Seriously. I got a mango that tasted suspiciously like plastic.

I’m trying to document everything, but my camera battery died about an hour into the kayaking trip. which, honestly, is a bit of a bummer. i’m relying heavily on my phone, which is already threatening to stage a revolt. i’m also attempting to learn some basic Tagalog - so far, i’ve mastered ‘hello’ and ‘thank you.’ which, let’s be honest, isn’t saying much.

I found this little beach bar called ‘Sunset’s Embrace’ - it’s tucked away down a narrow alleyway and serves the best damn gin and tonic i’ve had in ages. the bartender, a guy named Miguel, gave me some interesting advice: "Don’t swim after dark. The jellyfish are… active." i’m taking that with a grain of salt, obviously.

Speaking of locals, if you get bored, Manila is just a short drive away. Apparently, it’s a sprawling metropolis with a completely different vibe. i’m not planning on going just yet - i need to recover from this Palawan madness.

Gear List (because someone needs to keep track of this chaos):
Camera (mostly dead)
Phone (fragile)
Sunscreen (essential)
Insect repellent (absolutely essential)
Gin and tonic (priorities)
A healthy dose of skepticism
A very large supply of coffee

I’m heading to Nacpan Beach tomorrow - apparently, it’s a long, sandy stretch of paradise. i’m hoping to find a decent wifi signal, but i’m not holding my breath.

Check out TripAdvisor for El Nido: https://www.tripadvisor.com/Tourism-g298460-El_Nido_Palawan_MIMAROPA_Region-Vacations.html

And for some local eats, Yelp has some decent options: https://www.yelp.com/search?find_desc=restaurants&sort_by=relevance&location=El+Nido%2C+Palawan%2C+Philippines

I heard that the best way to experience Palawan is to just… go with the flow. which, honestly, is easier said than done when you’re running on zero sleep and a rapidly depleting supply of caffeine.

Seriously, though, go explore. Just… be careful of the mangoes.

Dust & Echoes in Palawan: A Sticky Situation

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About the author: Isabella Hart

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