Delhi Heat & Dusty Dreams: A Photographer's (Slightly Melty) Musings
okay, so delhi. it’s…a lot. i landed with a thump, honestly, and immediately felt like i’d walked into a hairdryer. i just checked and it's hovering around thirty-two degrees, but feels like someone’s gently roasting you with a warm breeze. the humidity’s practically nonexistent, which is…weirdly unsettling? like, it’s hot and dry, which feels like a personal affront to basic meteorology. the pressure’s a bit wonky too, apparently, but honestly, i’m more concerned with finding a decent iced chai.
my assignment? document the changing face of old delhi. sounds glamorous, right? it’s mostly dodging scooters and trying not to get lost in a labyrinth of alleyways that smell simultaneously of spices, exhaust fumes, and something vaguely floral. i’m a freelance photographer, so “glamour” usually translates to “slightly panicked and fueled by street food.”
gear-wise, i’ve been living out of my backpack. it’s a disaster, but a functional one. here’s the breakdown:
Camera: Sony a7iii (obvs)
*Lenses: 35mm & 85mm - trying to keep it minimal.
*Backup Batteries: Like, a lot of them. Delhi drains everything.
*Portable Charger: Essential. Seriously.
*Water Filter Bottle: Don’t even think about tap water.
*Scarf: For dust. And sun. And general delhi-ness.
*Hand Sanitizer: You’ll thank me later.
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“apparently, the best biryani is hidden down some unmarked alley near jama masjid. but you need to know the guy. and bribe him.”
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that’s what a rickshaw driver told me, anyway. i’m still trying to decipher if it’s actual advice or just a setup for a scam. everything feels…negotiable here. i spent an hour yesterday haggling over the price of a mango. a mango.
people keep telling me to check out the spice market. i’m simultaneously terrified and incredibly excited. i’ve heard rumors that it’s a sensory overload, and that you can get lost for days. someone warned me about pickpockets, but honestly, i’m more worried about sneezing myself into oblivion. you can find some good deals on spices though, according to this forum.
my neighbors? well, they’re…loud. and friendly. and constantly offering me chai. if you get bored, agra and jaipur are just a short train ride away. i’ve been meaning to look into that, but honestly, i’m still processing delhi. i overheard someone at a cafe saying that the best way to experience the city is to just get lost. which, as a photographer, is both terrifying and incredibly appealing.
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“don’t trust anyone who offers you a ‘special price.’ it’s always a trap.”
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that was a very stern woman selling shawls near india gate. she seemed very serious about the ‘special price’ thing. i’m taking notes.
finding good food* is surprisingly easy, though. i stumbled upon this tiny hole-in-the-wall place that serves the most incredible chole bhature. seriously, it’s life-changing. you can read some reviews on Yelp. i’m also planning on checking out this blog for more recommendations. i’m pretty sure i’ve gained five pounds already, but i regret nothing. absolutely nothing. i’ve also been using this local guide to help me navigate the chaos. it’s been a lifesaver.
so yeah. delhi. it’s hot, it’s dusty, it’s chaotic, and it’s completely captivating. i’m exhausted, slightly sunburnt, and covered in a fine layer of delhi grime, but i wouldn’t trade it for anything.
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