Cuzco's Got a Weird Hum: A Drummer's Dispatch
okay, so. cuzco. wow. i’m still buzzing, honestly. landed a gig here - touring with this Andean folk band, which is… something. my usual is pounding out beats for indie rock bands in dingy basements, so trading that for panpipes and altitude sickness is a change.
it’s… intense. the air is thin, obviously. i’m basically breathing through cotton balls. i just checked and it's hovering around 28.43 degrees celsius, feels like 27.98. pressure’s a bit wonky, humidity’s low - 39%. good for my drums, bad for my sinuses.
and the sound. man. the city vibrates. not in a cool, bass-heavy way. it’s more… a hum. a constant, low-frequency thrumming that gets under your skin. i think it’s the altitude, the ancient stones, the sheer weight of history. i’m not even kidding. i’m starting to think my kick drum is just echoing the earth’s heartbeat.
spent a day wandering around *San Blas, the artisan district. seriously, the stairs. my legs are screaming. but the little shops are amazing. found a hand-carved wooden cajon that i almost bought. almost. my luggage is already threatening to revolt.
“Don’t trust the taxi drivers near the Plaza de Armas. They’ll quote you triple the price, especially if you look like you’re lost.”
that’s what some drunk guy told me at a bar last night. seemed legit. i’ve been sticking to Uber so far.
food’s been… an adventure. tried cuy (guinea pig). once. won’t be rushing back. the markets are incredible though. so much color, so many smells. i’m obsessed with the empanadas. seriously, get the ones from that little stall near the Mercado San Pedro. you won’t regret it. check out TripAdvisor for reviews - though honestly, half of them seem like they were written by bots. https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurants-g297474-Cuzco_Cusco_Region.html
my neighbors? well, Puno and Arequipa are just a short hop away if i need a change of scenery. i’m trying to learn some quechua, but it’s proving… challenging. i can say “hello” and “thank you” without embarrassing myself too much, which is a start.
“The women selling textiles on the streets? They’re all connected. Don’t haggle too hard, they need the money.”
heard that from a local woman selling alpaca scarves. felt a little guilty after that. ended up paying way more than i should have, but the scarf is gorgeous.
gear-wise, i’m rocking:
My trusty Remo heads (obviously)
Vic Firth 5A sticks - can’t live without ‘em
Noise-canceling headphones - essential for dealing with the city’s hum
A ridiculously oversized backpack - because i’m a drummer, and we need to carry everything
Altitude sickness pills - a must-have
pro-tip: drink tons of coca tea. it actually helps. and don’t try to run up any hills. just… don’t.
found a cool little cafe called “El Cafe del Tiempo” - great coffee, even better vibes. https://www.yelp.com/biz/el-cafe-del-tiempo-cuzco
and the street art! seriously, some incredible murals popping up all over the place. i’m trying to document them, but my camera battery keeps dying. i need to find a decent electronics store. maybe check out this forum for local recommendations: https://www.cuscoperu.org/forum/
“Watch out for the stray dogs. They’re cute, but they’ll steal your lunch.”
that was a warning from the bartender at my hotel. seems legit. i’m keeping a close eye on my empanadas.
overall? cuzco is… a lot. chaotic, beautiful, overwhelming, and strangely hypnotic. i’m not sure i’ll ever fully understand it, but i’m definitely glad i’m here. now, if you’ll excuse me, i need to go find some more coca tea and try to decipher the city’s hum.
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