bolgatanga diaries: sweating through deadlines and dodgy wifi

okay, so bolgatanga. i've been here what, four days? time blurs in the heat. i'm a digital nomad, which means i'm supposed to be working from tropical paradises, but this place feels like an oven set to 'incinerate'. i just checked and it's...there right now, hope you like that kind of thing. 35 degrees celsius, humidity 33%, so it's a dry bake that makes your skin feel like parchment paper. feels like 35.53? my thermometer says that, but who trusts numbers when you're sweating through your shirt by 9am.

i'm in a cafe right now, the kind with plastic chairs and a wobbling table. the fan above is more noise than breeze, but it's the only spot with decent wi-fi. someone told me that the library has great internet, but it's closed for renovations. typical. i heard from a local that the real gem is a guesthouse called 'zaa' or something - they have a generator and strong coffee. i found it on this digital nomad board [link to nomad list] and it's a lifesaver. also, check out this jollof spot on tripadvisor [tripadvisor link] - the reviews are mixed, but the food is legit. yelp has a few cafes [yelp link], but again, take it with a pinch of salt.

the map shows i'm close to the burkina faso border.

if you get bored, ouagadougou is just a short drive away, but the road is rough and the border crossing can take hours. i tried it once and got stuck in a sandstorm - not fun. but the markets there are amazing, if you can survive the heat.

overheard gossip at a bar last night: 'the hostel by the roundabout has cockroaches the size of your hand.' i'm glad i'm in an airbnb. also, someone warned me about the tap water - don't even brush your teeth with it. i've been buying bottled water, but it's often warm, which defeats the purpose.

the pressure is 1008 hpa, which is fine, but i have a headache. maybe it's the altitude? bolgatanga is at about 500 meters, so that could be it. or maybe it's the caffeine from that strong coffee i mentioned.

images from unsplash:

i've been trying to figure out the rhythm here. early mornings are cool, so i work from 5am to 10am, then hide in my room with a damp cloth on my neck. after 4pm, it's bearable again. but the power cuts! they happen randomly, so i have a power bank, but it's not enough for a full day of work. my client calls get dropped, and i have to explain that 'the sun ate my internet'.

cost of living is cheap, though. i had a giant plate of waakye for 3 dollars, and my hostel is 12 bucks a night. but the trade-off is the heat and the dust. everything gets covered in a fine red dust. my laptop fan is working overtime.

i met a guy from canada who's been here six months. he said the rainy season is worse because of the humidity, but right now, it's just dry heat. he recommended a smoothie place - i'll check it out tomorrow.

if you're thinking of coming, pack light clothes, sunscreen, and a portable fan. also, learn a few words in luganda or dagbani - it helps. and don't expect fast internet everywhere. the local tourism board has some tips [link to tourism site], but they're geared towards tourists, not nomads.

anyway, i'm rambling. bolgatanga is an experience. it's messy, hot, and unpredictable. but there's a charm to it, if you can look past the sweat dripping into your keyboard. i'm out here trying to make a living while my shoes melt on the pavement. wish me luck.

oh, and the ground level pressure is 981 hpa? that seems low, but i'm no meteorologist. all i know is i need a cold shower and a stable connection.

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