Bogotá, Baby: A Drummer's Dizzying Descent into Colombian Chaos
okay, so. bogotá. where do i even begin? i just got back, and my brain feels like a snare drum that’s been left out in the rain. thirty-six… nine… six… one… five… zero. that’s the number of arepas i think i consumed. seriously. don’t judge.
this trip was… intense. i was booked for a session with a local band - some seriously talented guys playing cumbia-infused jazz - and figured i’d tack on a few days to explore. big mistake? maybe not. just… a lot. the altitude hit me like a rogue cymbal crash. i spent the first day feeling like i’d run a marathon while simultaneously battling a head cold.
and the weather? i just checked and it’s… a humid hug right now, clinging to you like a persistent hi-hat rhythm. twenty-six point one four degrees. consistently. it’s weird. like, no real variation. i’m used to london’s moody drizzle, so this… sameness… was unsettling.
getting around is an adventure in itself. the transmilenio is… well, it’s an experience. packed like sardines, a symphony of shouting, and the occasional rogue pigeon. i swear i saw a guy juggling oranges on one of those things. seriously. i’m not even kidding. i ended up relying on taxis a lot, which are surprisingly affordable. check out this TripAdvisor page for some taxi tips: https://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowTopic-g297479-i7233-k13943883-Bogota_Taxis_Safety-Bogota_Cundinamarca_Department.html.
food. oh, the food. arepas, empanadas, ajiaco (a chicken and potato soup that’s basically a hug in a bowl). i spent a ridiculous amount of time wandering around *La Candelaria, the historic district, just eating. i found this amazing little place tucked away on a side street - can’t remember the name, unfortunately - but they made the best bandeja paisa i’ve ever had. someone told me that the best arepas are found in the markets, and they weren’t wrong.
“Don’t trust anyone who offers you ‘special’ tours of the city,” a very drunk gentleman advised me at a bar. “They’ll take your wallet and leave you with a bad story.”
he wasn’t wrong. i did a walking tour, and while the guide was knowledgeable, i got the distinct feeling he was trying to upsell me something. i’d recommend doing your research beforehand and just wandering around on your own. Bogotá is surprisingly safe, as long as you’re aware of your surroundings. check out this Yelp page for some recommendations on safe neighborhoods: https://www.yelp.com/search?find_desc=safe+neighborhoods&find_loc=Bogotá,+Cundinamarca,+Colombia.
my neighbors? well, if you get bored, Medellín and Cali are just a short drive away. both have their own unique vibes, and i’m already planning a return trip to explore them further. i also stumbled across this forum with some local tips: https://www.expat.com/forum/bogota-colombia-13361.html.
“The street art is incredible, but watch out for the pigeons. They’re ruthless.” That’s what a local artist warned me about while I was admiring a mural in Getsemaní.
and the music scene! seriously, the music scene is alive. i spent a night in Usaquén, a charming little neighborhood with cobblestone streets and live music spilling out of every doorway. i heard that the best salsa clubs are in Chapinero, but i didn’t have time to check them out. next time, for sure.
gear list (because, you know, drummer things):
my trusty snare drum (obviously)
noise-canceling headphones (essential for the transmilenio)
a good pair of walking shoes (you’ll be doing a lot of walking)
a phrasebook (my spanish is… rusty, to say the least)
a reusable water bottle (stay hydrated, people!)
pro-tips:
learn a few basic spanish phrases. it goes a long way.
be aware of your surroundings, especially at night.
haggle for souvenirs (but be respectful).
try the aguardiente (but maybe not too much…)
* embrace the chaos. bogotá is not a city for the faint of heart.
You might also be interested in:
- https://votoris.com/post/lost-in-the-heat-chasing-the-beat
- https://votoris.com/post/oran-after-dark-a-drummers-messy-notes
- https://votoris.com/post/jakarta-where-the-heat-is-real-and-the-food-doesnt-lie
- https://votoris.com/post/this-is-not-your-typical-tourist-guide-to-sete-lagoas
- https://votoris.com/post/remote-work-in-sendai-is-it-a-digital-nomad-paradise-asking-for-a-friend-me