Algiers: Dust, Dates, and a Drummer's Dilemma

okay, so algeria wasn't exactly on my 'must-hit' list, you know? i was supposed to be in buenos aires, chasing a gig with this tango band, but flights got cancelled, visas got messed up, and suddenly i was staring at a ridiculously cheap ticket to algiers. honestly, i figured it'd be…beige. i was so wrong.

i’m a touring session drummer, right? so i’m used to chaos, but this was a different flavor. the *Kasbah is…well, it’s a labyrinth. a beautiful, crumbling, utterly disorienting labyrinth. i spent a solid afternoon just trying to find my way back to the hotel, which, by the way, was called ‘Hotel Majestic’ but felt more like ‘Hotel Slightly-Worn-Around-the-Edges.’

apparently, the weather’s been a bit…moody. i just checked and it’s a kind of hazy warmth hanging around, like someone left a kettle on low. the humidity’s definitely noticeable - 66%, which, as any drummer will tell you, is bad news for kit hardware. the air pressure is 1018, which doesn’t really feel like anything, but i’m putting it in here because the data said so. it was 12.31 degrees celcius, which is…fine. honestly, i’ve played in hotter showers.

people here are…intense. in a good way, mostly. i was trying to find a decent coffee shop (priorities, people, priorities) and ended up getting directions from this guy who insisted on showing me his collection of vintage stamps. it took twenty minutes, and i still didn’t get coffee, but it was a story.

someone told me that the best couscous in the city is hidden in a tiny restaurant near the port, but you have to know the owner’s cousin to get a table. apparently, it’s worth the hassle.

and the music! oh, the music. i stumbled into this little club in Bab El Oued - seriously, it looked like someone’s living room - and they were playing chaabi. it’s this incredible blend of traditional algerian music and…everything else. i ended up jamming with them for hours. my sticks are still smelling of mint tea and something vaguely smoky.

gear-wise, if you’re a musician coming here, bring backups. everything. strings, sticks, reeds, whatever. the selection is…limited. also, earplugs. the city is loud. not in a bad way, just…alive.

*Snare drum: Bring a good one. The humidity will try to kill it.
*Cymbal bag: Essential. Seriously.
*Universal adapter: Obvious, but i always forget.
*Phrasebook: French is widely spoken, but a little Arabic goes a long way.

I overheard someone at the Grand Mosque saying that the best place to haggle for souvenirs is in the Souk El-Attarine. Apparently, you start at half the asking price and work your way up. I also heard that the tea sellers are masters of the art of persuasion.

if you get bored, Oran and Annaba* are just a short drive away. i haven’t had time to check them out yet, but i’m thinking about it. i’ve been reading up on the history of the city on Wikipedia and it's fascinating.

I also checked out some reviews on TripAdvisor and Yelp before heading out, and honestly, take them with a grain of salt. everyone’s experience is different.

a local warned me to be careful walking alone at night in certain areas, especially around the port. common sense, really, but good to know.

this place is…complicated. it’s beautiful and chaotic and frustrating and inspiring all at the same time. it’s not what i expected, but it’s exactly what i needed. i’m extending my stay. i think i might actually find that tango band after all…or maybe i’ll just stay here and keep drumming. who knows? that’s the beauty of it, isn’t it? check out this local forum for more info: Algeria Travel Forum.

Algiers: Dust, Dates, and a Drummer's Dilemma

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About the author: Ava Morales

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